Buying canvas in a roll is a good opportunity to save on the cost of the product itself and on its shipping. From us you can purchase paintings both in rolls and on a stretcher. In the first case, even the shipping itself is much cheaper.

But a canvas cannot just be hung on the wall without a stretcher. It is the stretcher that holds the canvas in a well-stretched state. To ensure that the canvas does not sag and the painting retains its attractive appearance, we suggest using the following instructions.

How to stretch fabric onto a stretcher

The following materials will be required:

• subframe made of slats;
• crosses needed to eliminate distortions and deflections of the main bars, as well as increase the strength of the structure;
• set of staples for stapler.

You will also need the following tools:

• regular roulette;
• hammer (especially if you plan to use nails);
• wood stapler
• special tool for tensioning.

In general, there are two types of stretching and it depends on you which one you have to give preference to: gallery or classic. The first involves frameless design, when the canvas is stretched so that the image continues on the sides. It must be said that if it is fixed with reverse side stretcher and neatly wrapped in the corners, then everything looks great even without a frame. Therefore, today this method is considered very stylish and modern. This design can be found quite often.

There is also a classic type of stretching, when the ends remain white, and the picture itself is prepared under baguette frame. Like everything classic, this method will always be popular. In any case, it is important that the frame is made exactly to the size of the canvas, and that the timber is dry, without cracks or knots. The fibers should be directed lengthwise.

Size matters

In modular versions of the subframe, the slats are moved apart using wedges made from dry wood hard rocks. There are main slats that have external chamfers, and their internal bevel is approximately five degrees, which protects the image from damage.

The stretchers are strengthened with crosses, and then, so that the canvas does not come into contact with them, the picture is fastened to the main slats at a distance of 5 mm from the plane of the canvas. The ratio of the thickness and width of the stretcher slats can be different - it depends on the size of the larger side of the picture.

Almost 200 years ago, standard sizes for paintings appeared, thanks to which they can be classified. All formats are divided into three groups. For example, the most elongated format is called “marina”, a rectangle that approaches a square is called a “figure”, and “landscape” is the average type of format.

There are also markings that depend on the length of the longer side. For example, sizes 16x54 are called 15F, sizes 65x50 are called 15P, and 65x46 is a format numbered 15M. There are a total of 50 international sizes that fall within the listed standards. The standard row of paintings also corresponds to the standard dimensions of the stretcher frames.

Steps to success

Step-by-step instructions depend on which subframe you are using. If it is modular, then you will need to follow several steps described below.

1. Measure the diagonals of the subframe. If they are the same, then you can staple the corners using two staples for each corner. In order for the staples to be driven in well, the stapler must be pressed well and then driven in. It may happen that the staple is not driven in - then you need to twist the round knob on top and thus adjust the stapler. Nails can be used instead of staples. Only they cannot be hammered in completely. You need to hit it obliquely to bend the head to one side, and then the canvas will not fly off the nails in the future. To make sure everything is done symmetrically, after the first staple or nail, turn the canvas upside down, pull it a little and hammer it right in the middle of the opposite side.
2. Place the design evenly on the stretcher so that the threads of the canvas are parallel to the edges of the stretcher.
3. Using a special tool, staple the canvas on all sides. There is also a faster option: wrap the stretcher in canvas and, stretching it quite tightly, drive a staple in the center.
4. Secure the canvas with a stapler every two to three centimeters, moving from the center to the edge. It is necessary that the tool is tensioned with the same force. After this, continue to stretch the canvas, carefully tucking it at the corners and shooting it with a stapler.
5. Pull out the brackets that hold the corners of the subframe together. Fold and staple the remaining excess canvas.
6. Insert two wooden wedges each into the slots at the corners of the subframe and tap them with a hammer, but carefully.

If you stretch the canvas onto a blind stretcher, then you need to do everything as indicated in the first paragraphs for a modular stretcher. It is important that the canvas is stretched by the tool with the same force and quite strongly. This is necessary, because if the canvas sags, you will have to re-tighten it again. The canvas is also folded at the corners and the stapler is adjusted. Then the excess canvas that you will still need is folded and secured.

The subframe can be secured to the frame using metal corners 13 mm wide and 10 mm high. The corners can be mounted on a subframe or on a frame (depending on whose height is greater - the subframe or the frame). If the subframe protrudes above the level of the baguette, then you can use D-shaped plates to secure it. You can also use Z-shaped brackets (for example, to fasten double frames), which are attached to the frame with screws.

You can watch the process of stretching canvas onto a stretcher using the gallery method in the following video:

Primary requirements

1. Uniformity. The main requirement is not to distort the picture, so as not to distort its position. You also need to distribute it as evenly as possible across width and height;
2. The frame frame should not sit tightly on the subframe. Otherwise, due to changes in temperature and humidity, the dimensions of the baguette will change, and it will begin to put pressure on the stretcher, which is why the canvas will then sag unsightly.

There is another way

The stretcher is a very important part of the painting, but stretching the canvas onto the stretcher yourself is an option for the handy and economical. If you don’t want to waste time or you doubt your abilities, then you can purchase the painting already on a stretcher. The masters will do it for you and the level of their professionalism will ensure the tension required quality, and you can immediately hang the purchased painting on the wall.

Subframes are divided into two types: modular and ready-made. You can buy ready-made ones right away in the store, but the modular one will still have to be assembled. It is better to use ready-made ones for small paintings (30x40 cm).

The advantages of a modular stretcher are that if the canvas sag, wedges are driven into the grooves of the stretcher (which can also be bought at an art store) and the canvas is stretched. More often this need arises for large format paintings.

The side of the stretcher with a notch or bevel is called the front side, it is made so that the canvas does not stick to the frame.

The canvas is stretched onto the front side. If you decide to assemble a modular subframe, it is better to secure it with brackets at the joints.

To stretch the canvas onto a stretcher we need:

1. canvas,
2. stretcher,
3. furniture stapler,
4. tongs (optional),
5. hammer.

The canvas should be stretched to an elastic state, without wrinkles or sagging.

U finished subframe You need to soften the corners a little so that the canvas does not tear on them; to do this, knock a little with the side of the hammer on all four corners.
Then we cut out the canvas a few centimeters larger than the stretcher so that we can bend the canvas afterwards.


The figure below schematically shows a rectangular subframe, and the points are indicated and numbered in what order to hammer in the staples.

We start from the longer side - find the middle and attach one of the sides of the canvas with two staples.

Next, you need to hammer the bracket into the second point, i.e. stretch the canvas to the left, holding the edges of the fabric with all fingers (so that it does not tear and stretches evenly).

In general, stretching canvas requires strength and patience. Try doing this together - one pulls, the other hammers in the staples with a stapler. The fabric should be tightly stretched, but at the same time, do not over-shade, otherwise it may tear.

Point 3 – we also tighten and drive in two staples.

Then we move to the other side of the canvas and hammer in the 4th and 5th points, while stretching the canvas vertically. I use tongs for pulling - it’s convenient and my fingers don’t hurt afterwards.

Point 6 does not require any effort - just pull a little.

But 7 – you need to pull it very hard!

Next – 8 and 9 – we also pull with all fingers, but not too much, because Points 11 and 12 have not yet been scored. The direction of tension is vertical.

This is followed by 11 and 12.

Then we return to the short side with point 6, drive in the extreme points without much tension, turn it over and, already pulling strongly, drive in the staples along the edges. Next, hammer in the staples evenly, with tension. The interval between staples is 4-6 cm. We do this on all sides of the stretcher.
Long side:


short:


We secure the corners with an overlap using two staples.

If ready stretched canvas clap your palm, it will feel like a drum.
Ready product.

When viewed through light, the fibers must be perpendicular. It’s not quite perfect for me)), but it’s advisable to strive for it.

After the canvas has been stretched, it should be prepared for priming. For this we need gelatin. We dilute it in a ratio of 1:6 (gelatin: water). The water should be hot (boiling water), but before that you can pour a little cold water into the gelatin for about 10 minutes. Then stir the mass and cool. The consistency will be almost jelly or a little thinner. You need to cover the canvas with this twice. It is better to take a large brush (painting brush). The interval between coatings is 12 hours. After the second coating has dried, you need to lightly walk over the canvas with sandpaper (without fanaticism). Then you can cover it with primer. The soil is bought in a store and diluted with cold water until it becomes sour cream. They also need to be coated twice, only with an interval of 30-40 minutes.

After these procedures, the canvas is ready for use.

Probably, artists will understand me if I say that painting the same sketch is much more pleasant on a canvas that you yourself stretched on a stretcher, primed yourself to suit your specific tasks. After all, when you buy ready-made primed canvas in a store and then stretch it onto the canvas, the tension is not always good. And the soil itself, unfortunately, is often of poor quality. Once I bought such a canvas in a salon for a lot of money. And when I started writing, the paint layer began to dry out. This is when the paint darkens, ceases to be saturated in color, and when it loses its gloss. The ideal canvas should be stretched so that a slight drum effect is created (this is after priming). If the canvas sags, then this is already bad. The soil should not crack. It must hold the paint so that it does not peel off over time. Well, the paint layer should not dry out, i.e. the soil should not excessively absorb oil from the paint layer. All these problems can be solved at home, with your own hands. Next, I will consider the first part of the tasks: how to properly stretch the canvas onto a stretcher? (I wrote about subframe designs).

So, how to properly stretch canvas onto a stretcher? The canvas should be stretched using special tongs with wide lips. But, I must say, I rarely use them. Basically, I do everything by hand. The canvas is attached to the stretcher either with small nails or a stapler. The hats may not hold the fabric, so the nails should not be driven completely into the wood of the stretcher. Hammer it halfway. And bend the rest of the part with a hammer.

You need to start from the middle of the subframe rail. Drive the first nail into the middle. Then, with your fingers, pull the fabric from this nail to the edge, to the corner of the stretcher - now drive in a second nail, next to the first. The distance between the nails should be on average 5 cm. Next, drive in the third nail in the same way. When three nails are driven in, you can move to the opposite side of the subframe. To the side opposite the first. The first nail is also driven in here in the middle. Just before driving it in, you should try to stretch the fabric well. When the canvas is stretched and the nail is driven in, you can proceed to the neighboring nails from this trio. But under them, the canvas needs to be pulled not only towards itself, but also to the sides.

When we have stretched the canvas between the first pair of opposite sides of the stretcher, we can proceed to the remaining two. As a result, we will have a cross-shaped tension in the fabric.
So, we have made the basis. Now we continue to stretch the canvas from each three nails to the corners of the stretcher. It is better to do this first on the left, then on the right. Again on the left, then on the right. This will result in a more even tension. The canvas, now, needs to be pulled not only towards you, but also towards the corners of the stretcher.

The point of the whole procedure is to evenly tension the threads of the canvas. And so that the tension is sufficient. After sizing and priming, the canvas should not sag.
So, if everything worked out and you achieved your goals, then all I can do is congratulate you on your successful first experience in preparing canvas for painting!

Alexey Epishin.

_______________________________________

Probably, the artists will understand me when I say that writing the same essay, much nicer on the canvas, which you yourself pulled on a stretcher, he primed for their specific tasks. After all, when you buy ready-primed canvas in the store and then pulls it onto the canvas, the tension is not that always good. Yes, and the ground is unfortunately often come across poor quality. Once I bought the canvas in the cabin for a lot of money. And when I began to write, the paint layer became dry up. This is when the paint darkens ceases to be saturated in color, and when it loses its luster. Perfect canvas to be stretched so as to create a small effect of the drum (this is after priming). If the canvas is slack, then it is bad. The soil should not crack. He should keep the paint so that it does not flake over time. Oh, and a layer of paint must not dry up, t. E. The soil should not unduly absorb the oil from the paint layer. All of these problems can be solved at home, with his own hands. Next, I will discuss the first part of the tasks: it is — how to pull the canvas on a frame?
So, how to stretch canvas on a frame? Pull the canvas should be special forces with wide “lips.” But I must say, I rarely use them. Basically, do everything by hand. Canvas is attached to the subframe or small nails or staples. The cap can not hold the fabric, so cloves should not be driven into wood stretcher completely. Drive a half. And the rest of the bend hammer.

Should start from the middle rack of the subframe. Hammer the first nail in the middle. Then, pull the finger tissue from this stud to the edge, to the corner of the subframe - now the second drive in the nail, near the first one. The distance between nails should be an average of 5 cm. Further, the hammer in the same manner, the third nail. When the three nails are hammered, you can move to the opposite side of the subframe. To the side opposite the first. There are also hammered the first nail in the middle. Just before he should try to drive well to pull the fabric. When the canvas is stretched and hammered a nail, you can begin to adjacent studs of the trio. But for them, you need to pull the canvas not only to themselves but also to the sides.
When we pulled the canvas between the first pair of opposite sides of the subframe, you can proceed to the remaining two. As a result, we get a cross-shaped tension fabric.
So, we made the foundation. Now continue to pull the canvas from each triple nails to the corners of the stretcher. Better to do it at first left, then right. Again the left, then right. So get a more even tension. Canvas, now need to pull not only to themselves but also to the corners of the stretcher.

The meaning of the whole procedure is uniform yarn tension of the canvas. And so the stress is sufficient. After sizing and priming the canvas should not sag.
So, if everything worked out and you have achieved the objectives, then I can only congratulate you on the successful first experience in training canvas for painting!

Sometimes an inexperienced beginner asks: why make a canvas with your own hands, because you can buy canvases in art stores different types and sizes. That's how it is! But there are situations when making canvases with your own hands is simply necessary!

For example, you have I have a great idea for an urban landscape with an evening city, but the store does not have this 50/100 cm canvas format. But for painting you need a canvas of a unique shape, which does not exist in stores. Or you are planning to paint a modular painting on several canvases, but there is simply no way to select them ready-made.

The idea of ​​a painting on a custom canvas

And besides this, ART stores sell primed canvases in rolls, so why not make your own painting directly from scratch in the format you need? Read more about how to choose a canvas in the article, where I described everything in detail.

The main difficulty of the work awaits at the first stage of the required subframe format. Make your own subframe without special skills and tools are unlikely to work. Therefore, here you need to decide which is better:

• buy a ready-made subframe
• order production from a specialist, usually a carpenter
• purchase prepared modules (slats) to assemble the subframe yourself.

By the way, stretchers are usually made from well-dried pine wood, but there are brave artists who make stretchers from plastic! Pictures on such a stretcher do not deform even after many years!

Now I want to note that canvases purchased in art stores already glued and primed, even those sold in rolls. So after pulling it onto the stretcher, you can start working.

Important: all stretchers for painting must be movable, that is, the slats should not be glued together. As a rule, they are sold with 8 blades, which are inserted from the back and, if necessary, can move the slats apart by a few millimeters.

How to make a canvas with your own hands

Until recently, canvas was secured to a stretcher using nails, but now everything has been simplified thanks to such a thing as a stapler! An excellent thing for fastening, quickly and without unnecessary damage to the fabric from nails.

To make a subframe we will need: a suitable stretcher, primed canvas, hammer, stapler, scissors, tape measure or ruler. And of course, self-confidence!

Stapler for attaching canvas to a stretcher

So, step by step progress of work:

First you need to determine the dimensions of the canvas using the stretcher. It is necessary to cut the canvas with a margin of 5-6 cm on each side, so that the edges of the canvas are well wrapped on the back side of the stretcher.

Place the canvas on the table, place the stretcher on top so so that the threads of the fabric are parallel to the stretcher bars. This is very important so that the finished canvas does not deform in the future.

Important: The stretcher must be placed on the canvas correctly so as not to accidentally mix up the sides. The sides on the stretcher are not the same, we place it with the sawn side inward. To make it aesthetically beautiful and avoid the canvas touching the stretcher, such slats are needed. The photo below shows that the stretcher slats do not fit tightly to the fabric. That's how it should be...

Example of canvas stretching

Let me draw your attention to the fact that stretching primed canvas onto a stretcher is more difficult, since the fabric no longer stretches as much under a layer of glue and primer. Therefore, some artists slightly wet the canvas on the reverse side to make it more elastic and pliable. Don’t worry, after drying everything will return to its place and the fabric will stretch even tighter! In this case, It is advisable to make an additional layer of soil, since micro-tears in the soil may occur when wetted.

By the way, it is believed that it is impossible to wet the canvas from the back side, I beg to differ with this... Light moistening will not hurt, unless, of course, you soak it so much that water flows from it

Fold the edges of the fabric and secure them with a stapler. Work with the long side first, starting from the middle of the subframe bar. Mark the fastening with 3-4 staples and turn the canvas 180 degrees. Pin the fabric on the opposite side. Make sure that the distance between the staples is no more than 2-3 cm.

Now secure the canvas to the short stretcher bars. Stretch the canvas well and secure it with a stapler step by step. Work on the corners of the canvas last. This is the most critical area of ​​work, and it will determine appearance future painting. Gently stretch the fabric, tuck it in and secure with staples.

Important: you need to stretch the canvas more tightly from the center

Examine the result obtained, tap the staples with a hammer, and add more fasteners if necessary. Turn the canvas face up and check the quality of the work.

What to pay attention to:

• the tension density should be uniform
• Bends and creases of the fabric are unacceptable
• When you tap with your fingers, you should feel the surface of the drum.

If the canvas is stretched weakly, there are sagging or other flaws, don’t worry, all the amendments are in our hands! We stock up on patience, remove the staples and redo the work where there is a need for it. Every artist knows that the weight of paint puts a colossal load on the canvas. This means it will stretch even more.

On a note: If you have to make a large canvas for painting, then it’s difficult to do without special pliers (tongs for stretching the canvas). They can be purchased at art stores.

Canvas stretching tongs

If you want to stretch the canvas not yet primed, then it’s better to do as shown in the photo below. First, we stretch and secure the center of all four sides in a cross pattern, gradually stretching the canvas trying to keep the lines of the fabric parallel. To avoid overstretching the fabric, use the same tension force.

Don't forget that fabric stretches, and if you tighten it in one place, it may sag in another... At least this applies to large canvases if you stretch it alone. I had to do this... If something still goes wrong, I advise you to re-stretch the canvas before you continue making the canvas.

Picture with an example of canvas stretching

The photo shows an example using nails for fastening to the side of the subframe. You can find these in the store, this is exactly how they were made before. The main thing is to remember that the tension is uniform and the fabric threads ran parallel to the stretcher bars

Sizing

Now we’ll talk about if you initially bought regular fabric, that is, cotton, synthetic or linen. The information will be of interest to those who do not have the opportunity to buy ready-made canvases, as well as to those who wants to go through all the stages and make the canvas completely themselves!

Painting a picture on unprepared material is difficult, and most importantly, not practical, because the paints will be absorbed through the holes in the weave of the threads. In addition, paints on unprimed canvas are prone to cracking and falling off over time.

Therefore, the next stage is gluing it!

Why glue the canvas? Firstly, sizing makes the fabric base stable, secondly, it protects the canvas from the binder of paint and primer passing onto its back side, and thirdly, it “clogs” the pores in the fabric, preventing paint from seeping inside

In addition, after applying the sizing, the canvas acquires an elastic, durable film. The primer is better applied to the sized canvas; sizing prevents oil from being drawn out from the paints. This means it increases the durability of the painting and prevents the paint from fading. Do you know that More than one painted canvas has suffered from improper sizing and priming!

You can buy sizing or make it yourself.
The sizing in the artist store is a paste made from natural resins and glue, dissolved in water. As a rule, store-bought ready-made sizing contains special substances that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on the canvas. This is also very relevant, because over the years the fabric may suffer from mold, if, for example, there is high humidity in the room.

Working with her is easy and simple. To apply the sizing to the canvas, you will need a wide brush or spatula, a table or other horizontal surface. Using a spatula or brush, apply a thin layer of paste without pressing it through the fabric. Dry for 3-6 hours. If necessary, repeat another layer. In any case, it says on the jar how many times to apply the sizing.

Ready-made sizing for canvas

And remember how formerly artists glued the canvas without special means! To glue the canvas, many artists made their own wood glue or fish (sturgeon) and casein glue. A very labor-intensive and lengthy process! Moreover, such glue was applied only once and in a thin, even layer. If the canvas is re-glued with samovar glue, it becomes rigid, and cracks may even appear with subsequent stress on the canvas.

Today, many artists use edible gelatin for sizing. To do this, pour water over the gelatin packet until it is completely covered, stir and leave for a couple of hours. After the gelatin swells, pour boiling water in the same proportion.

Apply with a spatula, so it turns out evenly. Let it dry for a day and do a second sizing. Poorly glued canvas has holes (not glued pores of the fabric). Therefore, to determine the quality of the sizing, look at the canvas against the light; if it shows through, glue it again.

Gluing canvas with gelatin

Semi-liquid PVA glue is also used for sizing canvases, although the reviews about such sizing are far from positive. I know that PVA sizing is used for cardboard. Many artists consider the best glue to be made from sturgeon, that is, fish, so I believe that gelatin is the best alternative, as it is a natural glue product made from animal connective tissues!

In France, where I have lived for the last 17 years, they use rabbit glue made from rabbit skin to glue canvas. I think that each country has its own preferences for the adhesive composition, the main thing is that it is natural! If you are interested in painting, then you will be interested in an article with a charming charm! After all, acquaintance with painting begins not only with canvases, paints and brushes, but also with beautiful creative world artists!

I note that there are artists who don’t do sizing at all, and slowly tighten the pores and holes only with soil. Whether this is correct or not, only the life of the painting will tell. By the way, what brings a painting into a deplorable state, and how can it be restored?

How to prime a canvas

Why do you need primer on canvas? This is important an intermediate layer, a “strong conductor” between the base and the painting so that it can adhere firmly to the canvas. It also helps create the necessary texture and color tone. You can buy ready-made primer, just like sizing, or make it yourself.

The canvas primer can be adhesive, emulsion, acrylic, oil, semi-oil, synthetic. Those canvases that are on sale are coated with emulsion acrylic primer. For example, on our canvas they write: « The canvas is coated with Gesso acrylic primer 4 times" in French

Therefore the most optimal choice is an acrylic, emulsion primer for canvas. It is universal, great for painting with oil, acrylic and gouache paints.

Acrylic primer for canvas

Although there are artists who criticize such soil and believe that for oil painting he doesn't fit. I will say that these are the only ones we sell... Sometimes I myself make an additional semi-oil primer on top of the acrylic one. There are many primer options, and Each master prefers his own recipes and secrets in this matter.

The primer itself consists of two or three stages, so you shouldn’t force things and try to prime the canvas in one go!

Can be used for primer acrylic paint for construction work and make the primer yourself (see recipe below) or buy ready-made primer at an art store. For the first layer, dilute the paint a little with water. to the consistency of very liquid sour cream. Sometimes it is recommended to add a little sizing, which was mentioned earlier, to the first primer. This increases the adhesion of the soil to the canvas.

So, apply the primer to the canvas using wide strokes using a flute or a wide brush. Try not to brush the brush several times over one place and not to make sagging marks. To make the primer super even, you can use construction wide spatulas or a mini roller; this is quick and uses less soil.

Uniformly priming the canvas with a roller

After drying the first layer of primer, apply a second one. Dry and inspect the canvas. Drying time is 12-14 hours depending on the humidity of your room.

On a note: Make sure there are no drafts during drying! According to the observations of many artists, this does not have a favorable effect on the canvas.

If you are satisfied with the texture of the canvas and its background, then you can complete the work. If necessary, make several more layers of soil.

Well, if you decide to make the primer yourself, then here is a great recipe for good adhesion, that is, adhesion of paint to soil

• 200 grams of construction emulsion
• 1 yolk
• 2 tsp glycerin, that is, 10 g as a plasticizer
• ½ packet of gelatin, pre-soaked and diluted
• 5 tsp linseed oil, which will make the soil more elastic
• 1 tsp semi-liquid honey as a natural antiseptic

That's all! The canvas is ready for painting! Paint your colorful paintings and be filled with the energy of color, because, as you know, it works real miracles! About all the beauty of color therapy

Conclusion: as you can see, you can assemble a canvas with your own hands in different ways, you can look at things conservatively and correctly, or you can approach things creatively, not in a stereotyped way…. The main thing is that the canvas turns out aesthetically correct and the result of your work pleases you for a long time with the brightness of the colors!

Remember: “There are never great things without great difficulties.”- so said Voltaire, French poet, philosopher, historian

Friends, To prevent the article from getting lost among many other articles on the Internet, save it in your bookmarks. It will always be at hand if you want to return to it!

Ask your questions below in the comments, I usually answer all questions quickly

To stretch the canvas onto our stretcher, you will need a flat, clean surface, a pencil, a tape measure, a mallet, a hammer and a furniture stapler.

Before you order a frame and stretcher set for your canvas, you need to measure it correctly.

Measuring the canvas

Lay the canvas on the table and measure the width and height of the image. This measurement should correspond to the front of the painting.

The remaining part of the canvas will go to the ends of the picture and to the back. This remainder should be 3-4 cm on each side.
If the remainder is less than 3 cm, then the canvas will have to be stretched by fixing the staples into the end of the stretcher, which will negatively affect the quality of the tension. As an alternative option, it is worth considering reducing the size of the front part of the picture with partial overlap of the image at the ends.

The resulting size of the front part of the picture must be used as the internal size of the frame when ordering a set of frames with a stretcher.

Subframe assembly

The modular subframe kit includes perimeter strips, cross strips (for larger sizes) and wedges. For assembly you will also need a tape measure and a mallet.

Connect the subframe slats by inserting the tenon into the groove. Make sure that the side of the subframe is on the same side for all slats.

If the kit includes transverse or longitudinal strips, install them until the last perimeter strip is fixed.

Press all joints as much as possible using a mallet, making sure that the planks are joined strictly perpendicularly.

To check the correct assembly, measure the diagonals of the subframe with a tape measure. When assembled correctly they should be equal. If the diagonals are different, align them using a mallet.

When assembling and aligning the subframe, avoid strong impacts and do not use a hard hammer to avoid breaking the perimeter strips.

Canvas stretching

Lay the canvas face down on a clean, flat surface.

With help a simple pencil Mark on the back of the canvas the places where the corners of the front part of the painting are located.

Place the stretcher on the canvas with the side down. In this case, the corners of the stretcher should coincide with the pencil marks.

While stretching the canvas slightly, wrap it in the center of the side strip of the stretcher and nail it with a furniture stapler. First on one side, then on the opposite.

Make sure that the canvas has not moved, if necessary, slightly tighten and fix the other 2 sides - with a cross.

Nail the canvas to the stretcher with a stapler from the center to the corners along the entire perimeter of the stretcher. Lastly, carefully wrap and secure the corners.

Insert the wedges into the grooves in the corners on the inside of the stretcher and achieve an acceptable tension on the canvas by driving the wedges in a circle with a hammer. If the subframe has longitudinal strips, wedges must also be inserted and driven under them.

Measure the middle on the top bar of the subframe and screw the gear hanger with self-tapping screws.

The painting is ready, you can put on the frame.