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| Hidden measure. Unzha River: Meryan-Mari borderland. Unzha settlement. Kostroma region - Rus' - History - Catalog of articles - Unconditional love |
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Kostroma region- Kostroma region. Kostroma region is located in the center of the European part of Russia. Included in the Central Economic Region. Area 60.1 thousand km2. Population 805.7 thousand people. (1996). Urban population 66.3%. Live (%):… … Dictionary "Geography of Russia" KOSTROMA REGION, subject of the Russian Federation; located in the center of the European part of Russia. Included in the Central Economic Region. Pl. 60.1 thousand km2. Population 797.0 thousand people. (1998). Urban population 65.5%. Live (%): Russians... ... Russian history Coordinates: 58°33′ N. w. 43°41′ E. d. / 58.55° n. w. 43.683333° E. d. ... Wikipedia Region to the Center econ. region of Russia, founded in 1944. Sq. 60.1 thousand km², adm. center. Kostroma, other large cities: Bui, Nerekhta. It is located within a moraine-hilly, sometimes swampy plain. In the W. Kostroma lowland, in the center of Galichsko... Geographical encyclopedia In Russian federation. Formed on August 13, 1944. 60.1 thousand km2. Population 797.0 thousand people (1998), urban 65.5%. 12 cities, 8 urban villages. Kostroma center. The surface is hilly plain. Average temperatures in January are –12ºC,… … encyclopedic Dictionary As part of the RSFSR. Formed on August 13, 1944. Area 60.1 thousand km2. Population 835 thousand people (1972). In to. 24 administrative districts, 11 cities and 18 urban-type settlements. Center of Kostroma. K. o. awarded the Order of Lenin (16... ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia City of Manturovo Flag Coat of Arms ... Wikipedia Unzha River, Unzhenskoye settlement, Makaryev, ancestral burial mounds, blue Kostroma taiga. This is in a part of Russia that is not talked about on the pages of glossy magazines or on television news. On the border of the Kostroma and Nizhny Novgorod regions there is a wonderful, lost, patriarchal world, where children on the streets of villages themselves come up to you and say “Hello,” girls with slightly slanted eyes, red hair and freckles smile sweetly at you, men are sedate and taciturn, and to a guest Precious Meryan black salt can be offered as a sign of special favor.
This is the Unzha River, a green sea of forests with rare dusty roads and veins of icy rivers that sometimes dry up in the summer.
The capital of the Unzhensky region is the city of Makaryev. There are no trains to Makaryev. You can only get to this former land of timber merchants, millionaire peasants, schismatics and sectarians, folk artists and powerful sorcerers by car. From Kostroma it’s almost 200 kilometers along broken roads through Sudislavl, Ostrovskoye, Kady. In winter, with the smoke of stoves, and in summer, with grassy streets and domes of churches, patriarchal Makaryev will greet you. The settlement, which later grew into a city, was formed around the monastery founded in 1439 by the Monk Macarius of Zheltovodsk, who came here after the destruction of the Zheltovodsk monastery, where he was abbot, by the Tatar Khan Ugu-Magomet.
The Unzha on which the city stands is a river of the ancient Meryan-Mari borderland. The right bank is Meryan, the left bank is Mari. This was the case in the early Middle Ages, and this was the case a hundred years ago. Unzha river..
The formation of the Kostroma Mary and the Vetluga Mari, autochthons of the present Kostroma land, arose on the basis of two close Finno-Ugric cultures of the early Iron Age: Ananyinskaya in the Volga-Kama region, from which the Azelinskaya culture later developed, and Dyakovskaya in the Volga-Oka interfluve. Among the Kostroma Merians, the influence of the Dyakovo culture, layered on the proto-Sami culture of the more ancient autochthonous population, is more noticeable, and among the Vetluga Mari, the features of the Azelinskaya culture predominate.
Merya and Mari are relatives. Even their self-name is similar. In the northwestern dialect of Mari, the self-name of the people, in contrast to the literary version of “Mari,” sounds like “mӓrӹ.” To the question “Whose are you?” Vetluga Mari answer “mӓrӹn”, that is, Mari, which in Slavic transcription is written as “meren”. This is one of the arguments of supporters of cultural closeness, if not identity, of the Merians and the Mari. Among them are such famous historians and linguists as M. Vasmer, T. S. Semenov, S. K. Kuznetsov, D. A. Korsakov.
But the point is not only the similarity of the self-names of peoples. Too much is intertwined between them in the thickets of the Kostroma taiga, the reeds of countless rivers and the swamps of its swamps. We will talk about this in this material, taking a virtual trip to Unzha.
The rich, centuries-old history and culture of the ancient Unzhenskaya land, the presence of many archaeological monuments, amazing toponymy and ethnography represent an endless untouched field of activity for historians, archaeologists, local historians, and folklorists.
For example, the folklore layer about the “pans”, which is one of the universal Meryan and Mari ethnic markers, has still been poorly studied. Numerous tales about the “lords”, who in later times were identified with the “Lithuanian thieves” of the Time of Troubles, retain, as we will see below, elements of legends that developed in a much earlier era. In ancient times, according to one of the legends, in the vicinity of the village of Vali, next to Makaryev, there lived “lords”, large people who spent their whole lives in military campaigns and robberies. Treasure hunters in burial mounds and on river banks actually found numerous large skeletons, weapons and various noisy decorations. In the legends, the “lords” are clearly thought of as aborigines of the region who did not know the Orthodox faith, since neither crosses nor other images of the Christian cult are found in the burials. “gentlemen” are people not of our faith who once lived in these places in the old days. They attacked residents and stole livestock. Local residents tried to drive them away several times, but to no avail, but they could not defeat them because they were very strong and well armed. Until, thanks to one smart person, the “lords” were not killed. After the lords, rings and jewelry were preserved among the people for a long time, but now they are difficult to find, because they were inconvenient to wear - they were too big and therefore converted into other things. (Recorded by priest V. Ilyinsky) By their origin, all of the above stories are combined with identical legends existing from Mari El to Karelia. In them we see one Finnish mythological motif. They are similar to the earliest Finno-Ugric legends about giants, going back to our people’s ideas about our ancestors. From them it is clear that the artistic consciousness of the tribal society was preserved in later periods, slightly lagging behind social life, therefore the activities of later folk heroes were reflected in traditional figurative form.
The ancient language of their ancestors, the “lords,” was not forgotten by the local residents. In Unzha, back in the mid-20th century, an amazing language called “Zhgon” was widespread. The Zhgon language is one of the so-called “conventional languages” of Volga artisans, who used such languages as special corporate means of communication in order to make conversations incomprehensible to others. For the first time, the presence of a special language among the Kostroma Sherstobits was noted by V.I. Dahl. The regional and ethnic features of this language are an interesting topic, which, unfortunately, has not been touched upon by specialists at all, and meanwhile, Zhgon contains quite a bit of Meryan and Mari vocabulary. Here, for example, is the Mari-Meryan vocabulary in Zhgon from Bondaletov’s collection, occasionally with our additions.
Arbez, arbez- boy; arbezka - child; arba - child, boy; Arbushka - girl; Erbez, erbez- boy; erbesenok - boy, child; erbesenochek - child, baby; erbezka - son; erbishka, erbishechka - boy, boy, boy; to whimper a little erbeska - to give birth. Mariysk. rweze - baby, easy rweze - boy
Around Makaryev, just like hundreds of years ago, there are untouched forests, swamps, rivers and ancient villages with quaint names.
Pelegovo- from the personal name Peleg, pele - offspring.
Unzha- from ancient Perm - undzha - stream, river.
And modern Russian local surnames go back to ancient pre-Christian names and nicknames reminiscent of the recent times when the Merya and Mari who lived here still spoke their native language. Alyabyshev- the Muscovite secular name Alabysh has been found in documents since the 15th century. It is curious that one of the Alabyshes (1556), a coachman, was the son of Kolob and, apparently, his grandfather bore the surname Perepechin - an example of traditional family names for similar subjects or calcams of native languages. (Fasmer). Alyabysh, olabysh is a product made from dough: among the inhabitants of the upper Volga region it is a pie, among the inhabitants of Vyatka it is a bun. Having completely switched to the Russian language a little over two hundred years ago, in the territory of what is now the Kostroma region, Merya and Mari physically did not disappear anywhere. This, as we see, is evidenced by the anthropological type widespread among modern residents of the Unzhensky land, Finno-Ugric surnames, language features, and toponymy. Hidden Finnogria is still alive and well among us. January 26th, 2015 This is the end of my short series of notes about the Kologriv region. It started here and here. But we can’t do without a story about the Unzha River. There will be more tourist information here, in the appendix there are tracks and maps with references, but there will also be some photos, although they are more and more landscape. My guide through the forests of the Kostroma region, director of the Kologrivsky Forest nature reserve, Pavel, asked me every time: “Well, are you still in the forest, feeding mosquitoes in the trees, let’s go to the river, to the open space. Let’s go rafting from the sandy hill on which there was a fortress "Old Kologriv! Through winding meanders and clear water we will reach the new Kologriv." Finally we made up our minds. We took a small inflatable boat for two, but only to fit a backpack with photographic equipment, prepared a small three-horsepower silent four-stroke motor just in case, and off we went for five days. Seeing our belongings, heavy for two, the inspectors decided to give the travelers a lift and loaded the boat onto a trailer. Beyond the Unzha River, behind the Kologrivsky Bridge, you need to move to the right, towards Varzenga and Shablovo along a wide dirt road. Here we flashed the abandoned village of Pavlovo on the left, and Burdovo, popular among summer residents, on the left. Houses in Burdovo overlook the river shallows, so the village is not dying. A wooden sculpture waved its hand, indicating the way to the Efim Chestnyakov Museum and Efimov’s Key. The village of Chermenino has a convenient descent; a car can get right to the water. Silence, the tall spruce trees of the right bank growing on the hills are darkening, telling of the approaching evening. Almost silently we begin our way up, past the hill on which Old Kologriv was located. We will climb it tomorrow, in the morning, the weather promises to be good. Pavel hurries to climb up to the village of Vyaltsevo to set up a modest tent on the shore and spend the night. We are walking along the river during a low-water period (a period of low water); there is no need to be afraid of a sharp rise in water, as happens in mountain or Far Eastern rivers. So the hard and clean shore is very suitable for parking; the wind blows mosquitoes away from the open place. The fact that we have a gas burner with us helps us avoid cutting down willow trees on the shore (it is of little use anyway), and we take all the waste produced with us. As one famous landscape photographer says: “I take out my camera when the sun has already disappeared below the horizon.” This is just such a case, the sky and the reflections of the setting sun illuminate the river with fish splashing in it with a large reflector. The splashing of fish and the play of water on the rifts near the stones became the only sounds that were heard. There is not even the thin squeak of the ubiquitous Central Russian mosquito. But in the morning there is an opportunity to examine the riverbed. The river becomes noticeably shallower upstream. Let's try to figure out why not only the Unzha, but also dozens of other rivers in the Middle Zone and the North are becoming shallower from year to year. The upper reaches of the Oka and Don used to be navigable; steamships of the Samolet partnership known from the works of the classics went to Kologriv. There are several different opinions, we are talking about this with Pavel. He is a local, grew up on the river and knows its character and the changes over the last 40-odd years. According to O. CHIZHOV, Doctor of Geographical Sciences, the culprit was the rafting of timber, which began on the Unzha and other rivers of the Vologda and Kostroma regions. He himself was among the researchers who designed the use of this method in 1928. This is what he writes. “Such big changes in the condition of the river are explained by the fact that since 1930 they switched to moth rafting - the forest went in bulk, in separate logs. I was essentially a boy then, I was 25 years old, and did not understand what consequences this could lead to .And the head of the party, engineer V.V. Tsinzerling, and the head of the rafting detachment, engineer A.V. Prilutsky, the organizer of this more “rational” method (less work, no need to rally logs into rafts approx. author), I think they also did not imagine the consequences of the mole alloy; they considered it a temporary measure - for the sake of the speedy implementation of the first five-year plan (in four years, as is known). And the consequences turned out to be terrible, and not only for the Unzha and its tributaries, but also for many other rafting rivers in the north of Russia. This is how the artist from the town of Manturovo, down the Unzha River, saw it. In early spring, in high water, logs collided into the river and the water carried them down, they were almost uncontrollable. Many drowned, some were covered with sand or washed ashore. This was not followed. To this day, in some places you can see the bottom covered with trunks from the Kologriv forest. The river became smaller, and many trees were cut down, reducing the volume of water transported from forest streams. True, some scientists refute this theory. But still, for a couple of decades the shores could look like this. Now the trunks along the banks are almost all overgrown with willow, which during ice drift prevents the shallowing channel from being cleared. However, the path for a kayak or small boat among the deserted shores still remains clear, the current is quite fast, the water is clean and transparent. The photo shows a tree trunk preserved from the middle of the last century. So, following stories from the past and discussing theories of shallowing, we reach a large sandy cliff, behind which was probably the mythical Old Kologriv. On the map of the Kostroma governorship of 1792 it is present, on the map of Strelbitsky in 1874 it is called the town of Gorka, on the Soviet topographic map of 1989 it has already disappeared, the edge of the river is overgrown with forest. The cliff is impressive. On the sandy hill, spruce and fir trees grow at different angles; on the top there are already old, almost century-old coniferous trees. The elevation angle, in my opinion, is almost 70 degrees. You have to carefully climb up the hollow on the left, trying not to fall off. In the steep outcrops the soil layers are clearly visible, and in the sandy layers I find several fossils. Some of them remind me of pictures from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia, which tells about the ancient fauna of the Jurassic seas. Here on the right is a cross-section of a white tube - probably exactly the “devil's finger” known to every schoolchild of the seventies. I remember I collected them in the Moscow region, in the spruce forests of the Klin region. Let these lie here, otherwise there will be nothing to show to other guests of the steep slope. There is an anthill at the top of the hill. In the moss layer, the old ant road is clearly visible, along which the system of forest “hostels” communicates with each other or resettles when the family becomes too large. But the sun, time, and current call us further, to the next stop. The next cliff on the left bank, no less high, but inhabited. A gazebo and equipped fire pit suggests making your next camp here. I’m going down the cliff to get my things and a black kite, probably a young one, literally flies at me. He circles nearby, is interested, tries to remember the strange creature with a large white pipe, and then sits down on the shallows of the opposite shore. I can distinguish the konshun from the tail, which has a noticeable triangular cutout inside. This site is located in a tall pine forest just above the village of Kolokhta. Opposite there is a sand spit and a beach on which there are no human traces. The water is clear, you can see the bottom. And if you walk a few hundred meters forward, you can see traces of tree tapping. Nowadays this fishery is almost never used, but previously pine resin was extracted this way in order to make rosin. Or turpentine, a therapeutic and educational remedy for laziness and various other diseases. Usually, with a special cutter, a lot of cuts were made along the bark in the form of a herringbone, with the top down, the resin flowed into a special container. Our boat departs from a tall pine forest. Ahead, beyond Kolokhta, another world awaits us, wet and shady. Elniki begins. The coastal strip meets with thickets of horsetails of such lushness that I make a note for memory. This is all because the humidity of the river is adjacent to the sunny, illuminated slope. It’s probably good to take photographs of insects or girls in the dew, in the style of Yulia Vtyurina or Rimantas Dikhavicius. As they say, who is closer to what. I am content with the water striders that have accumulated near the sunbeam that breaks through the paws of the fir trees. Risking falling straight into a small pool, I take about 500 shots of chaotically moving creatures from the lowest point. And in my viewfinder I have spaceships, early Lucas with Star Wars and young Luke Akiwalker. In the entire series, only one frame showed the position of the water striders in an organized star patrol. The river gets shallow and we get out of the boat, lead it in high waders, then we find ourselves in a rapid. The motor is turned off. We silently move forward, me with binoculars and a telephoto lens on the nose, Pavel on the steering wheel. And of course we see a lot of birds. There are a lot of them, and further downstream, closer to the reserve, the diversity increases. The mallards didn’t even take off; they probably felt good on a sunny, warm stone covered with dried algae. The gray heron, more cautious, disguises itself as a tree branch. But anyway, I got used to it and let myself be examined. I was especially surprised by the meeting with a white-fronted goose, who somehow ended up on Unzha in the summer. The fact is that Kologriv is considered the Goose capital of Russia, it is such a brand in the city. Local residents organized the Kologrivskaya Poima nature reserve, banned hunting there, and fed grain to flocks of geese and geese as they migrated. And scientists study them, install transmitters and loggers on birds. At a certain period, during the May holidays, several thousand geese concentrate in the vicinity of the city, I really haven’t been to Unzha at this time, so the photo will be from Alexey Terentyev, a local resident. A few more birds, which, by the way, can be seen in the center of the city of Kologriv, on the pond. The next stop is on the high left bank just above the village of Ileshevo. There is already a little more trash left behind by various tourists. But it’s still comfortable, there’s a canopy and a table. The next crossing will be straight to the Kologrivsky Bridge, a few kilometers left. And then you can decide whether to leave the river or continue rafting down to Manturovo. The channel becomes wider, the river deeper, the banks change. Since the river is not part of the prohibited territory of the reserve, anyone can be on it. And the staff of the reserve will help in word or in some deed, since they know these places very well. And finally. Several location-based maps for Ozy Explorer (space, Strelbitsky, two-kilometer) can be downloaded here https://yadi.sk/d/j5jSCsDPeFVhx from my Yandex disk. This will be useful for those who know the program well and understand why it is needed. For everyone else, my set with the boundaries of the reserve (where you should not climb), parking points, a route along the river for the free Google Earth is here https://yadi.sk/d/C2_q1v60eFVrX, again on my Yandex disk. My live story about the Kologrivsky region, a meeting with the staff of the reserve and the museum will take place on Saturday, February 7 at 16:00 at the festival “Primordial Russia” in the Central House of Artists, Moscow, st. Krymsky Val, 10, Central House of Artists on the second floor. Come. The village of Unzha is named after a tributary of the Volga - the Unzha River (from the Turkic languages -, according to another version -). Unzha is an ancient Slavic settlement that appeared in the 11th-12th centuries. According to historians, Unzha arose under Prince Vsevolod the Big Nest between 1176 and 1212. The chronicle mentions this settlement as a city in 1218. In the 12th-13th centuries it was a stronghold for defense against the Tatars. In the 14th-19th centuries the city served as a trading mission. In 1928, a collective farm was formed. Currently in Unzha there is a community center, a local hospital, a school, a recreation center, and a post office. The village contains architectural monuments (including three churches, one of which is active), historical and natural monuments. Unzha is an old town. What is known about him? The Brockhaus and Efron dictionary (edition 1902) states: In the work of Khersonsky (member of the Kostroma Scientific Archival Commission) (1888 edition) it is mentioned that in 1552 the Kazan Tatars visited the city of Unzha. In 1670, in Unzha there was a detachment of Stepan Razin under the command of Ilya Ivanovich Ponomarev. The detachment from the Volga walked along the Vetluga River and then through the territory of the present Timoshinsky village council reached the city of Unzhe. While in Unzha, Ponomarev forced the zemstvo elder Taraska Grigoriev to gather the people and priest Timofey to read out. Having learned about the existence of the Makaryevsky Monastery, the detachment went there, but on the way somewhere between Unzha and Makaryev they were met by the troops of the Moscow governor Vasily Narbekov and were defeated. The historian Soloviev writes that (vol. XI, chapter 5. History of Russia). Khersonsky, in his work on the development of the chronicles of the Makarievsky Monastery, argued that Ponomarev’s detachment was completely defeated. In reality, as can be seen from the collection of authors L. Belov, V. Kastorsky and N. Sokolov on the history of the city of Galich (Kostroma publishing house 1959), the detachment was not defeated, but consisted of 400 horse and 300 foot soldiers through the territory of Kologrivsky The district retreated to Sudai and besieged it. Ponomarev left the foreman of the detachment, Miron Fedorovich Mumarin, to lead the siege, and he himself, on five occasions, with nine fighters, went to Totma to recruit new forces and find weapons. But on December 11, 1670, on a remote forest road near Totma, he was caught by a detachment of the Totma governor Rtishchev and on December 12, 1670, he was hanged near Totma on the bank of the Sukhona River. Foreman Miron Mumarin from Sudai reached Veliky Ustyug, where he was caught and sent to Moscow with several assistants. Before the transformation of the Makaryevskaya monastery settlement into the city of Makaryev (1778), there was a voivodeship (district administration) in Unzha. But the monastery estate had a royal charter dated October 20, 1626, which said: . The city of Unzha was for a long time a significant trading center and only with the formation of the city of Makaryev began to wither away. Unfortunately, there is no specific data on the size of trade in the past about Unzha. But some idea can be obtained from the available information about trade in the Makaryevskaya monastery settlement. Thus, according to the chronicles of 1667, trade was widely carried out in Makaryevskaya Sloboda. Fairs were held annually in January and July and markets were held every Friday. During the fairs, the monastery alone rented out 267 shops, 15 huts, 8 huts and 2 closets. There were 13 rows of benches. Merchants from Yuryevets, Galich, Unzha, Kineshma, the village of Voroney, Nerekhta, Reshma, Ples, Kostroma, Yaroslavl, Nizhny Novgorod and from Moscow came to the fairs. Even English merchants with tobacco came to the fairs. It must be assumed that in Unzha, before the formation of the city of Makariev, trade was more brisk than in the monastery settlement. In Unzha there are two monuments of old architecture - the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker of the 16th century. and a settlement - a military-engineering earthen structure of the 15th century, one of the most powerful partially preserved in the Kostroma region. View of the village of the same name from the Unzha River. Unzha is one of the most ancient settlements on the territory of the modern Kostroma region. Located in Makaryevsky district, 18 km. northeast of the regional center. For a long time, Unzha had the status of a fortress city and was founded as a stronghold for the defense of the northeastern territories of the Vladimir-Suzdal principality. There is reason to believe that the fortified city of Unzha was founded at the end of the 12th - beginning of the 13th century. It was first mentioned in chronicles in 1219 in connection with the campaigns of the Volga Bulgarians against Ustyug and Unzha. Gradually, the city turned from a military-administrative center into a commercial and administrative center. In the book “Ancient volosts and camps in the Kostroma side” Unzha is mentioned in the 15th century under the name “Unzhenskaya tamga” - a place for collecting duties (tamga):
In the 16th century, Unzha again performed a military mission, protecting the northeastern territories of the Moscow state from Tatar raids from the territory of the Kazan Khanate. Some researchers consider medieval Unzha to be a city in the socio-economic sense of the term, others consider it as a fishing and trading settlement that had not yet acquired the character of a city, although it had a fortress (the time of its construction has not been established for certain). In the second half of the 17th century, the city of Unzha lost its former importance, since a new city arose 15 versts from it - Makaryev.
On September 5, 1778, the Unzhenskaya province of the Kostroma governorship was created. It consisted of 4 districts: Vetluzhsky, Varnavinsky, Makaryevsky and Kologrivsky. The Unzhensk province was liquidated by decree of December 12, 1796. In the “Materials of Geography and Statistics of the Kostroma Region” of 1861, Unzha is mentioned as follows:
The city was home to 5 nobles, 32 representatives of the clergy, and 149 merchants. The inhabitants were engaged in agriculture. The village was famous for its onions, as well as its shoemakers and tailors. In 1916, the following trading establishments were located in Unzha: manufacturing stores of K. Sheshina and O. Shabarova, bread and grocery stores of A.V. Muravyov, V.A. Rodionovskaya, A.I. Morokhin, I.I. Rodionovsky, I. V. Subbotin and M. E. Selezneva.
The most important monument of urban planning in Unzhi is the planning structure of the former city of Unzhi that has survived to this day, built in accordance with the general plan developed at the beginning of the 19th century and retaining its ancient core - the fortress of the 13th century. The rectangular composition of the plan with a grid of blocks, formed by the intersection of longitudinal and transverse streets, is sparse with a system of squares arranged near the fortress (Torgovaya) and at the intersection of the roads passing through Unzha to Galich, Kologriv, Makaryev (Nikolskaya and Sennaya). The expressive natural landscape used by city planners makes Unzha one of the most picturesque settlements in the Kostroma region. Religious buildings play an important role in shaping the panorama of Unzhi. The oldest of them is the Resurrection Cathedral, built in stone at the end of the 18th century on the site of a dilapidated wooden cathedral and located on the territory of the city fortress. Population Unzhi village as of 2008 it is 366 people. Currently, in Unzha there are the following enterprises and institutions: agricultural production of the agricultural production complex "New Way", a school, a cultural center, a local hospital, a post office. |
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