September 7th, 2015

Deep wobblers are a large category of plastic baits that are used by many spinningists at different times of the year. This category of wobblers includes baits, denoted as DR, DDR or MDR. That is, deep wobblers are baits that work in the skinny waters or near the bottom. In general, we can say that deep-wobblers are wobblers that can work at depths of 2 meters or more.

The working depth of a deep wobbler depends on its size as well as the size of the blade. Naturally, large wobblers can work at great depths, and small ultra light models are rarely able to dive deeper than 3 meters. Therefore the concept wobblersdeep  somewhat arbitrary, and here we can talk about a certain ratio of body length to the length of the bait blade.

When to catch

Deep wobblers are used in situations where the fish hunt at the bottom or somewhere in the water column. These baits allow you to break through the desired horizon, thereby effectively provoking the predator to bite. Also, wobblers-dip are used by a passive predator when it is not possible to lift it into the surface layers with shallower baits. Especially this case is typical when catching twitching.

Wobblers deep with the right choice of model, allow you to catch the best koryagku or boulder, as well as the horizon above the bottom, without touching the algae growing at the bottom. The latter situations, by the way, occur on shallow watering of reservoirs, when all the fish stand in the grass and need to be lured from there.

Often, having picked up the necessary model of a wobbler-dip, it is possible to carry on a bait, striking the bottom with a shovel. At the same time from the bottom rises, which creates the illusion of a feeding fry. In addition, a deep wobbler with an emphasis on the bottom creates additional noise, and such fuss attracts the predator from a greater distance.

Regarding the time of year when dipy are in demand, then we can note the period of cold water. It is autumn and spring when the predator does not feed on the surface. In the summer, deep wobblers also work, but their area of \u200b\u200bapplication is often limited to algae or the behavior of a predator feeding in the upper layers.

Deep-sea wobblers are equally effective in current or in standing water bodies. Of course, the current imposes some features on the animation of the dip, but this is irrelevant and the predator responds to deep wobblers as well as to water bodies without a current.

How to catch

A deep wobbler can be either a point action bait or a search bait. For example, with such a wobbler, it is possible to catch the koryag or tubercle very effectively. And at the same time in the open spaces of reservoirs with depths of up to 4 meters, the dipa allow you to quickly pierce a given water area.

To deep wobblers maximally opened in the hands of a spinningist, it is necessary to animate the bait correctly. Here, much depends on the presence of the current and the particular predator that the angler plans to catch.

Perch

For striped on lakes and other places without a current it is best to use hard twitching. You can do monotonous wiring or with one-two-second pauses. When fishing for a current, soft twitching or wiring stop & go is most effective. The best models of deep crankbaits for catching perch are:

• Pontoon21 Cheerful 40F MR.
• ZipBaits Khamsin 50DR.
• Pontoon21 Greedy Guts 55SP-MDR.
• ZipBaits Rigge Deep 56F.

Pike

On standing ponds, the pike is often caught by hard, chaotic twitching. The amplitude and strength of the jerks is not repeated. In this case, the dip behaves erratically, roving around and imitating the stray fry. In the rivers, deep-wobblers are also caught like perch using soft twitching or stop & go. Of the most interesting wobblers, dip can be noted:

• ZipBaits Rigge Deep 70F.
• ZipBaits Khamsin 70DR.
• Pontoon 21 Crackjack 58F DR.
• Cultiva Rip’n Minnow 70SP.
• Ima Farina 90F.

Zander

Fanged wobblersdeep  they catch only in the current, because this predator almost does not live in standing water bodies. For perch, twitching is practically not suitable, so monotonous wiring or stop & go will be best. So, we note the following models:

• ZipBaits Rigge Deep 70F.
• Pontoon21 Crackjack 58F DR.
• Duel Hardcore LB-70.
• Liberty Bite 60F.

Video about deep cranks

Wobblers class "dip" ( Deep 1), that is, deep-sea, our fishermen have long been familiar with and are successfully used in a variety of conditions on huge reservoirs and on tiny rivers - in general, everywhere where cranks are needed with great depth. In this article, I will talk about my favorite models, which deserved recognition not only by successful fishing and more than once rescued in the most difficult situations, including competitions, and also describe the conditions for the most appropriate use of "dipes." Thus, I hope, the reader will develop a general picture of the use of deep-sea perch cranks.

  1 Deep  - in this context, a reduction from the accepted classification of wobblers Deep runner, that is, deeply diving.

At my leisure, I went through my boxes with perch wobblers and realized that there were probably more “dipes” in them than classical minnows. Because as of late, when it comes to catching perch on wobblers, I most often use “deep” wobblers.

So, let's talk about small “dipas”, up to 60 mm in length, aimed, first of all, at catching perch (and next time I will tell you about larger deepwater lures, which I most often use for pike and pikeperch).

The list includes real veterans of the business, which, I am sure, you have already heard about. But they are not written off to the reserve, but continue to actively participate in battles with underwater inhabitants and triumph. These are the best of the best in my arsenal! Familiar and familiar, but no less loved!

Specifications:

• length: 48 mm,
• weight: 5 g,
• buoyancy: suspender ( SP),
• depth: 2-4 m.

For me, this is one of the most sought after perch "dipov." I learned about him a long time (about six years ago) at the competitions of the Russian Spinning League. Then among the athletes there were legends about a certain wobbler, which is compact, goes very deep and just mows the perch. But they knew that it was only a few - and they carefully hid their secret. However, as you know, all secret becomes clear. And I soon learned that it was he -.

A lot of time has passed since then, I tried a huge number of very different deep-sea cranks. And still remains one of the best for perch fishing in many competitions. And not without reason. Most of the competition for fishing with spinning boats are held on various reservoirs. Most often, the best perch points in such conditions are at depths of two to five meters, where there are dumps with shell, all kinds of mounds, "navels", "tables", towering above the bottom. It happens, near such places, the perch is going to the boilers and squeezes the fry to the surface itself - the water begins to boil, and the perch with terrible force begins to absorb everything that moves. Then, in general, it doesn’t matter what to catch him, so to speak, they bite even on a bare hook. Frankly, I have not seen such boilers for five years, especially on the reservoirs nearest to the capital. Therefore, most often the bait should be filed as close as possible to the perch site, that is, bury as much as possible. And it is here that we need a wobbler, which has the unique ability to very quickly occupy the working horizon of the order of 2.5-3 m and firmly hold it throughout the distance up to the boat itself.

It must be said that even if such happiness as a perch cauldron happened, this wobbler will not remain outside the game anyway. The fact is that now all competitions are held with a limit on the number of perches caught and it is important to catch as large as possible individuals. And it has an amazing ability to cut off small relatives. When others lash out at other baits, a larger perch comes across to this lure.

And another significant advantage for catching on the area is good flight qualities. Of course, this is not a 5-gram lead head, but for its size it flies with dignity. The main thing is that the throw should not be sharp, but with a delay, otherwise the wobbler will start spinning and will not fly anywhere. But if the tungsten ball shifts when it is cast and remains in the tail, then the ballistic abilities may surprise you.

About wiring

In order not to confuse the reader when describing the most appropriate entries for the wobblers in question, it is better to be brief. However, the posting of “dipov” has a huge number of options and their combinations, which are selected based on the model used and the conditions of fishing, fish activity, water temperature and many other important factors. And in theory, it would be necessary to disassemble and describe in detail all types of transactions that are suitable for each bait and specific situation ... But just imagine how confusing and tedious this will be! I'd rather show it in practice on a video sometime. I think it is so much clearer and clearer.

Therefore, in the article I will describe only the basic wiring, without distractions to all kinds of "but", "or" and "if."

For I most often use sharp twitching with long pauses. The uniform pulling of the lure after one or two powerful jerks works very well. That is, we make two strong jerks with a rod (the trajectory of a wobbler is unpredictable, it can move both vertically and horizontally), then a few turns of the coil at a slow uniform pace (the crank returns to the working depth and remains clearly oriented), and then pause, during which most attacks occur.

As you noticed from the characteristics, the wobbler has a large sweep depth. And indeed it is. If you pull the bait very sharply and without pauses - to go deeper than two meters will not work. But it is worthwhile to start the wiring in a slow uniform style with minimal prefab, and the horizon is 3.5 m for no limit.

About fishing line

Do not forget that the fishing line used, or, more precisely, its diameter, has a tremendous impact on the proper operation of the “deep” wobbler. For most perch "dip" I use the minimum diameters of the braid - from 0.4 to 0.6 (according to the Japanese classification). Only with a thin wicker can get from the wobbler maximum penetration. There are situations when we are not able to use a very thin line because of specific fishing conditions, for example, when part of the wiring occurs on the curb with a sharp shell rock. In such cases, of course, it is necessary to build on the conditions, because it is foolish to tear off expensive wobblers for the sake of reaching the desired depth. But overly zealous, too, is not worth it. With the "edinichka" (also according to the Japanese classification), almost any perch "dip" will be ineffective. Need a compromise! Partly helps the use of more wear-resistant fishing line, for example. This braid belongs to the expensive price category, but due to the more dense weaving with the same diameter, it rubs much less and lasts longer.

About buoyancy

Next, we will focus on wobblers that can hang in the water column, i.e., suspenders ( suspend). Due to this quality, they are preferable in most situations. But sometimes the suspender is inferior to the bait, executed in a floating version. For example, on a strongly stony or cluttered bottom, a floating crank makes it much easier to get rid of the hooks. So, for fishing in places with a high probability of hooks, it is better to use a floating model. When contacting an obstacle, the main thing is not to make sudden movements, it is necessary to practically stop the wiring and allow the wobbler to float a little, and only then begin the winding. So the bait will bypass the obstacle without catching.

Specifications:

• length: 40 mm,
• weight: 2.7 g,
• buoyancy: suspender ( SP),
• depth: 0.5-1 m.

I haven't been catching this lure for quite some time. Is it strange to you that he is on the list of unconditional favorites? No wonder, they just bite him almost always and everywhere! Therefore, do not catch - not interesting. I know I'll catch you!

He is one of the first, he is the best, he is the record holder in various types of predatory and peaceful fish. This is exactly the model of wobbler, which combined all the necessary qualities for most of our fishing conditions, especially for small rivers with moderate flow.

At one time, on a very pressed river near Moscow region, he brought me pike up to 4 kg, and “snatched” perch, and large asps, even a mirror carp weighing 4 kg did not remain indifferent to it. And the whole thing is in the form of a wobbler - “shad”, and in one of the most working horizons of the wiring is about a meter.

Thanks to its miniature size and amazing verticality, this allows you to lure perch out of the local pits and “holes”. He needs just a meter of pure water to attract attention to himself. I remember there was a funny incident on a small river in the winter. The river is heavily littered, and in one place near the shore was lying some kind of incomprehensible metal construction of a rectangular shape, half submerged in water. Over a course near the base of this structure a small pit went up, but the distance from one edge to the other was no more than one and a half meters. And then there was already a powerful jet, which did not give an opportunity to carry out a wobbler. So, thanks to this local sector, we managed to catch more than fifty "sailors". Of course, the size of the perch was rarely more than one hundred grams, but with each successive time the number of perches accumulated in one tiny pit, increased. It was just necessary to get clearly under the edge of the metal wall and with a few turns of the coil to drive the cranks down, and then it was picked up by the reverse flow, and I played them almost in one place. Even with minor, barely noticeable swaying spinning lure very attractively played on the course. And after several short ryvochkov, on a long pause, curious perch could not resist and immediately attacked the bait.

About wiring

It is best to use the so-called smoothed twitching. Since the conditions for its use are mostly small rivers with moderate currents, where fishing is conducted in local areas, the slower wiring with gentle tugs turns out to be the best. The main task is to cover every shelter as thoroughly as possible, so there is no need to hurry, and sharp frequent jerks of the bait do not need anything.

Specifications:

• length: 50 mm,
• weight: 4 g,
• buoyancy: suspender ( SP),
• depth: up to 1 m.

Only positive memories and emotions are associated with this wobbler. Perhaps, as well as, it can be attributed to the veterans who have repeatedly proved their tremendous catchiness. To be honest, I even find it difficult to say whether I caught more perch or chub. But since this “dip” in the list of perch favorites, they were caught on him a lot. And what is most interesting - larger than the other. Yes, it is him who is most often attacked by the big humpbacks. The body is more meaty or something, it is not flat and not elongated, but it’s straight that it’s right ... It looks a bit more dimensional than wobblers that are similar in size to it. Due to this, has a more sweeping game. Apparently, such a wobble feature and attracts chubs and large perches.

He is also one of the most long-range and keeps a great flow. Thus, for small and medium rivers - a very formidable weapon against a predator of any size.

About wiring

Due to its shape, it is firmly friends with uniform wiring. Excellently shows itself on the current, on the failures of the jets and in the return flows. With him it is possible to keep the longest pause. Very clearly keeps its location even without performing the wiring. Often, during long pauses in the return lines, pike-perch attacked him. Despite the fact that he’s not so deeply buried, he keeps his meter steadily, and most importantly, he manages not to stray over the current and works very well on the transitions from a strong jet to a lull or “return flow”.

Specifications:

• length: 56 mm,
• weight: 3.1 g,
• buoyancy: floating ( F),
• depth: 1-1.3 m.

I am sure that not only for me this bait is one of the best. It works in such different conditions that it is difficult to determine the most suitable for it. It also copes with perch fishing in ponds and lakes, where depth requires its use. Of course, good on the rivers of the very different plan. And very cool catches not only perch, but also other predators that live in the reservoir.

About wiring

Very responsive wobbler. In the wiring with him you practically do not feel that you are catching with a “dip” - he reacts very sensitively to any action of a spinning machine. Easy enough for its size, but thanks to a proprietary magnetic system, in the range of the flight will give odds to many brethren. On small rivers, because of this, it often falls on the opposite bank ...

Combined with a variety of wiring options and at the expense of their own expressive game, as they say, forgives flaws in the wiring. You can lead him as you please, but he will still be biting at it! It is gratifying to note that, recently, this wobbler is also being produced in the sinking version, which, naturally, adds opportunities for application (only use is better on the course).

Specifications:

• length: 38 mm,
• weight: 2.5 g,
• buoyancy: suspender ( SP),
• depth: 1-1.4 m.

Small, fidgety, restless ... Probably, a lot of epithets can be chosen for this kid from the most numerous family of crankbaits. There are, of course, "dipy" and smaller, but - a reasonable minimum when catching perch.

Despite its size, due to the impressive blade it is capable of diving deep enough. However, it is very sensitive to the diameter of the fishing line. It is ideally combined with the thinnest - 0.3 and 0.4 according to the Japanese classification.

Great for small rivers with a strong flow, and it is in the version of "Suspender" ( SP). And it is even better to load the wobbler a little with the help, then even on a strong current it will be hard to knock it down. I remember when this crank appeared for the first time at Andrei Pitertsov at a training session before the World Cup in Andorra, we experimented a lot with him, as the mountain trout river with a rapid stream made its demands on the lure of lures. So, by adding a fair amount of lead plates on the wobbler's little body (it was floating) and painting it in acid tones (since the pre-production samples were faded), we got just a deadly bait. Andrei seems to have had three of them. So, just enough for a few casts, all went to the big fish. I remember that trout of two and three kilograms came across (the line was used, of course, thin).

About wiring

Uniform with the flow, at a slow pace, without sudden jerks, so that there are no failures in the game. Zest - work on the stream, like a krenk, but at the same time, coming out of it, while making light ryvochkov spinning rushing from side to side, like any decent girl.

It is also great to collect perch with a light twitching at a slow pace. But at the same time, the diving horizon suffers a little.

Specifications:

• length: 40 mm,
• weight: 3 g,
• buoyancy: suspender ( SP),
• depth: 0.5-1 m.

There are a lot of pleasant memories associated with this wobbler (actually the same as with all), and large groupers caught at him, and chubs, and even decent pikes often attack this kid where they are not expected at all. But here is one episode when the smallest member of the family was attacked by a completely unexpected fish, I remember for a lifetime. It was in the Krasnodar Territory on the Malaya Laba River. There were qualifying competitions in the Russian national team for spinning fishing. And we had a free practice, during which the athletes were allowed to fish in any parts of the reservoir, except for the zones set aside for competitions. Going to one whit, I decided to linger and experiment. After a series of ineffective postings with other baits, I decided to check a deeper horizon and launch there, surrounded by “suspenders”, so that the bait would sink even deeper. And at the next posting the usual movement of the wobbler was interrupted by a powerful jerk. Frankly, the first few seconds, and maybe even minutes, I just could not understand what was happening. What was on the hook, rushing around the pool from one bank to another. Poor Featherweight  up to 5 g bent in an arc, the clutch on Daiwa Exist Steez  practically began to smoke. And this is despite the fact that the average size of a trout in the river was about 50-100 g, and instances of 500 grams were an event. And here it is ... In general, everything ended well, and this river monster turned out to be a wild insanely beautiful trout weighing about 4 kg. Caught the queen, we naturally returned to her possession. But this event gave such emotions and such adrenaline that even now, when I write these lines, the goosebumps are already running! And all because of the fact that I decided to catch a deep crank lure for a deeper horizon than usual. This I mean, to what extent the most familiar little things can change the usual course of things at first glance ...

About wiring

It can be called a kind of antipode in relation to the wobblers considered, as it is perfectly combined with fairly aggressive twitching and works over large areas, collecting all the curious perch in the area. It is good both for reservoirs, and for various rivers, but it is better with a weak current.

Based on the data presented in the table, it is possible to draw certain conclusions.

To be continued.

  Deep  - this is not a manufacturer company, this is a class of wobblers. Wobblers “Deep” are distinguished by a large spatula, which is mounted almost coaxially with the body of the wobbler. This design allows deep wobblers, quickly deepen, sharply go down. Such bait is often in demand when it is necessary to catch a predator from a great depth; when you need to fish steep edge, dumps from the shoals to the depth.

Deep lures  can be, as quite large, so - medium and small. Also, the shape of the body can be quite diverse - both “minnow”, and “shad”, and “crank”. With buoyancy also - a complete set, from floating, to quickly sinking models. The only thing that unites the “Deep” family is the characteristic large blade that allows to fish for decent depths.

Walk through the models of deep-sea deep class crankbaits. So to say, to understand what to choose, if it became necessary to use deep-sea wobblers.

A good wobbler, in the first place, trolling. Wobblers 7cm, 9cm, 11cm - dive, respectively, to: 4.5m, 6m, 9m. Wobbler has a high-frequency game. Lure - classic deep fishing.

  - a large family of deep-sea "puzatik" from Rapala. Show themselves well on trolling, and when fishing in a cast.

  - diving version of X-Rap. There are 7cm and 13cm models, diving up to 3m and 4.5m, respectively. Wobbler has its own game with a small amplitude, and moves well on twitching.

classic shad, with a great depth of penetration.

  - high-quality bank, dives for 5m.

- lousy flies, but perfectly goes down the curb, right up to 6m depth. Suitable for trolling, or for fishing steep coastal shafts, cast from a boat, under the shore.

The wobbler market is continuously updated with new and new bait models. It is not so easy to keep track of this trend, and the question arises: is it necessary?

Many anglers adhere to several models of cranks, which they own perfectly, and do not clog their heads, buying up hundreds of baits. Why reinvent the wheel and organize a fishing warehouse at home? It is better to decide on what is needed, and if this does not suit you by some criteria, then you can refine the bait.

Now they talk a lot about deep-sea cranks, and I think this is justified. Lures of this class deserve special attention and respect in the fishing environment due to their field of application. Under the dip often mean a wobbler, which is able to deepen "more than usual." In this case, the forms of these baits can be very different, it is fat, shad, and minnow. With feta is not so simple as it seems. Usually this type of lure is done either by catching a bass or by trolling. But there are intermediate lures. Everything seems to be good with them, but I do not understand why “floating”, that is, floating, lures are more common. It would seem that designers should stick to the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking a suspender or a sinking model of a wobbler for greater penetration, and they do the opposite. Baits with this body geometry (fat) are less functional and have a narrower scope of use than shad and minnow. As a rule, these frames are limited to uniform wiring with variation of speed and pauses, and in this article I will not consider this type of crankbaits.

With shadi everything is much more interesting. But not all of them are equally good. Some models of wobblers work both on uniform wiring and when
twitching, but not all. The basis of this problem lies on the surface: the wrong loading of the wobbler. It is enough to completely change the orientation of the bait in the water, and it will behave differently. And this change is both positive and negative. For this reason, not all shadi can be successfully performed using the twitching method.

With wobblers, minnow also has its own nuances, pros and cons. Typically, lures with such a geometry respond better to jerky wiring, but they can show poor results with uniform wiring; as a rule, they require a greater wiring speed to begin to hesitate, rather than shads, and this is not so good at catching a passive predator.

But with baits of this type, you can perform a sweeping aggressive wiring, which is designed for a quick search for active fish. We will take a closer look at the bait in the second part of the article, but now let's talk about the nuances that have a positive effect on deep cranks.

Contributing factors

The main task when using dipov is to deliver the bait to a certain depth. And it is better if this figure will correspond to the depth of the reservoir. But in fact, it is not so easy to deepen the bait even by 3-4 m when catching a fling.

Often you can find references to the deepening of the bait. These data help you choose the right model, but you have to take into account that a lot of factors affect the depth of the bait: the bait itself, cord thickness, wiring speed, wiring pattern, flow, etc. Let's figure out what should be considered and done to maximize the use of dip. .

Let's start with the cord. For the greatest depth of the bait should choose the thinnest cords. Only it is necessary to take into account possible touches and hooks on the bottom and snags, and hence the fineness of the cord becomes reasonable. I usually catch cords with a breaking load of 8 to 15 lb (or nominal 0.8–1.2 on
  Japanese classification) depending on the conditions and baits used.

The choice should be made in favor of 8-core cords, since it is possible to put a thinner cord with increased characteristics for breaking and abrasion. With such a catch, the Pontoon21 Eight Braid 14 lb cord has worked well. It is a multicolored round cord, flies far and has a low windage.

If you include a mono-roll leader with a diameter of 0.18–0.27 mm (the breaking load must be comparable with the breaking load of the cord) and a length of about 1.2–2.5 m, you can achieve greater immersion of the bait. This is due to the lesser windage monoleski in the water. It forms a more correct line when moving the lure than the cord, which is more susceptible to sail due to a lower specific weight (in its composition the cord carries air enclosed in the space between the fibers) and features of its structure. That is, when wiring the cord creates a kind of lifting effect, which is transmitted to the bait. When fishing in a current, this effect is manifested to a greater degree than when fishing in still water.

As a material for a leash it is better to take flarocarbon, since in addition to the invisible properties of its material, it has a more even structure, unlike nylon. For clarity, the above phenomenon is shown in the figure.

The next nuance is the speed and nature of the wiring. The maximum depth can be achieved only by fast uniform wiring. All other posting options will not lead to such deepening of the bait. Therefore, it is necessary to imagine what plan the bait is most appropriate to put in a particular situation. For example, with moderate uniform wiring, a floating crank will go smaller than with twitch. Therefore, if it is intended to carry out a wobbler with the help of uniform wiring, then it is better to put bait with buoyancy suspender and sinking. This becomes especially relevant when it is necessary to hold the bait as slowly as possible and closer to the bottom, for example, when night fishing for zander. It is very good when the same wobbler model is produced in three versions (floating, suspender, sinking). This allows, alternating buoyancy, to choose an uncompromising option for deepening.

The flow adversely affects diving crankbaits. The force that falls on the bait, trying to push it closer to the surface. When fishing on a current, it should be taken into account that the same sinking wobbler will sink more slowly on the current than in still water, and, accordingly, its possible diving limit will decrease. When fishing in the current, I load my bait to the required level in advance. I wrote about this technology in “Fishing in Russia” No. 5/2011.

Sometimes you have to resort to great tricks and make ultra-thin lures. I will tell about this experience in the following issues.
When fishing in the current, I also use thinner cords than when fishing in standing bodies of water. This not only allows you to increase the casting distance and the depth of the bait, it is also easier to control and carry out the bait with such a cord, since the influence of the flow extends not only to the vertical component, but also to the horizontal one. Simply put, the arc that forms between the bait and the angler reduces the sensitivity and sensation of contact with the bait.

With deep wiring deep crank dip the most unpleasant is hooks. Sometimes it is so annoying to part with your favorite bait, especially if adjustments were made to its design.

Bait

Pontoon21 Greedy Guts 66 SP MDR

Description of weblers, I would like to start with this model is not accidental. The body shape of the bait belongs to the class of minnow. But it has one big difference from the baits of this class: a thickening in the lower part of the body. Due to this, the bait can be put a little closer to the shadas. This innovation in the design gives the wobbler an attractive sweeping game on a uniform wiring, while leaving all the features of the wobbler minnow.

With this bait I catch absolutely in any conditions and reservoirs. As a matter of fact, its catchiness served as a lever of influence on the ways of creating a self-made sinking model of this bait, since it wanted to expand its catch limits. And it turned out to be done in no tricky way: it took Suspendots lead weighting from Pontoon21, a bath with water, a camera, desire and free time.

Due to this, models were made, not only with a certain speed of immersion, but also they were made under specific conditions. For example, for tweeting, I shifted the center of gravity of the wobbler to the head, which caused a greater inclination of the bait in the water, but at the same time on uniform wiring, the vibrations became less sweeping and more frequent.

When finalizing a wobbler for uniform wiring, I did not interfere in the initial balance of the bait, but only changed the buoyancy itself. In this case, the bait has retained all the original qualities.

That's the way from one bait got several directions. I do not stop modifying this wobbler and I think that much can still be obtained from it.

Since this lure works equally well on tweezers and even wiring, I prefer to catch this crank using a Psychogun PGS732 MSF 7-24 g spinning rod. This choice is not accidental. The rod design is typically twitch, but the blank is longer than twitch classics. This gives spinning more advantages: the stiffness characteristics necessary for tweeting remain, and an increase in the length gives, in my opinion, greater sensitivity or sensing. What does this give? With a uniform wiring, I feel a good moment when the wobbler starts to play, and this is very important, as it gives the possibility of full control over the work of the lure.

Actually, I don’t really like “blind” catching when you have no idea what is happening with the bait, and when you can’t control it fully. Today, this model of spinning is my most running gear, and not only in wobbler fishing.

For the 66th Greedy Guts, I use an 8-wire cord with a breaking load of 12–14 lb or 4-wire with 10–12 lb. Damiki Saemi 90 SP
  A wobbler that is more suitable for uniform wiring. The lure quickly “gains depth”, keeps the flow well and “starts” at a low wiring speed. I also carry out this model using a soft spinning method: uniform wiring with wiggling the tip of the spinning. Thanks to this wiring, the wobbler moves at different speeds, and the speed changes are smoother, unlike the “stop & go” wiring, where the animation is done by changing the speed of rotation of the coil.

The model with the SP marking turned out to be slowly sinking; I think this is a big plus, since such lures should have just such a level of buoyancy. When wiring, the wobbler occupies a position with a strong inclination forward and when touching the bottom it beats it with a spatula. To reduce the hooks, I replace the front tee with a twin on this bait.

With baits of this kind, I use spinners of a different direction: they are slightly longer and have a more delicate structure, which allows you to carry out wiring with a smooth tie, while allowing you to feel the wobbler with your hand. I usually catch spinning Pontoon21 Seven & Half SHS765 XF 7-21 g, and not by chance: spinning hard enough, but it has a sensitive tip, which when bending a wobbler bends, signaling the start of a wobbler. This quality is very useful when you need to lure slowly.

With this wobbler, I use the same cord as the previous model.

ZipBaits Rigge Deep 70 F / S

A typical representative of minnow wobblers. More recently, the sinking modification of this lure appeared and immediately found use.
  The sinking model complements the floating predecessor, increasing the working horizon of the lure. Between them there is a small difference in the game of bait: a sinking wobbler with uniform wiring performs vibrations with a slightly greater frequency, otherwise they are similar. I use such a small difference with benefit: the baits seem to be the same, but their vibrations are different. When selecting a catchy bait on fishing, I, besides the models of wobblers, will definitely put a sinking and floating Rigge Deep 70. This bait works on a wide variety of entries. Perhaps, it is also necessary to look for such a multifunctional bait as the Rigge Deep 70. For fishing, I use spinning with a length of 6 "6" -7 "3" (2-2.2 m) with the usual structure for wobble fishing.

ZipBaits Khamsin 70 SP DR and Pontoon21 Greedy Guts 77 SP MDR

I did not accidentally put these two lures in one row and explain why.

First, they have a very close focus and similar parameters.

Secondly, both baits are quite different from the total mass of baits.

Khamsin 70 SP DR is a typical shad with good penetration, has a sweeping stable game with a uniform wiring, but it is actively working with a jerk: wags, goes to the sides. The main thing is not to overdo it with the force of jerks, otherwise, instead of wagging and scouring the wiring, you will get swims with sharp fluctuations of the bait, which, rather, will scare the predator away. For such baits, I use spinning with a length of 7 "0" -7 "3" (2.1-2.2 m). For example, Lamiglas Certified Pro X70 MXS 7-25 y.

Greedy Guts 77 SP MDR has a very similar behavior and scope with the previous bait. I do not accidentally mention this wobbler a second time, and this is not a repetition: 66 and 77 are not the same bait. When changing the length of the bait was followed not only by the geometric increase of the wobbler, but also by the change of the game itself, which becomes visible when first viewed.

Megabass Deep-X 200

Super deepwater wobbler. I think that it is difficult to bypass this bait in terms of magnitude. This model has a very interesting feature: a rolling ball in the head part. When the bait only begins to gain depth, it rolls closer to the blade and the wobbler, when moving, acquires a maximum slope, which allows it to sink deeper and reach the working depth. Approaching the depth limit, the wobbler changes position and the ball rolls into working condition. And after that the wiring itself begins.

This bait has a number of difficulties. The main thing is the understanding of the bait itself and its game. The difficulty lies in the fact that it will not work on the surface to see how the wobbler will play: the ball will constantly strive to roll into the “depth dial” position. And in different ball positions, bait has a completely different game. Understanding comes when the fish begins to peck and catch.

I recommend to start catching, sticking to uniform wiring with spinning wiggle, you can do short jerks before the pauses. Such wiring is easier to perform, and it is more versatile than others. For catching this lure you need a powerful rod.
  But it should be good to keep the resistance created by the lure when wiring, and it is high. Spinning need about 7’0 ”(2.1 m). Longer is not necessary, as there will be more difficulties: the tip of the spinning will bend too much during the posting, which will reduce the possibility of monitoring the posting and bait.

For example, the StCroix Legend Tournament LTES70 MHF2 10-28 g - the most powerful, sensitive spinning of a certain direction.

Pontoon21 GagaGoon 60 S MR

The smallest of baits, which I mention in this article. A wobbler does not have such a large blade in its design, as the baits described above, but it is capable of well digging due to the fact that it sinks quickly. I comfortably catch this bait at depths of up to 3.5 m, adhering to the above notes to the rigging. The only caveat is that after a throw, you need to endure time so that the bait would plunge properly.

This method of fishing makes sense only when using thin cords. If you catch with thick cords, then to hold the bait at a depth of 2.5 m will already be problematic. The choice should be given only in favor of an 8-wire cord with a breaking load of 10-12 lb.
I spend this bait in the bottom layer with touches on the bottom, a kind of jig wiring. It should be noted that on the fall the lure plays well, waving from side to side, and the ball inside constantly rolls, creating a distinct sound.

You can list the range of crankbaits to infinity. I talked about the baits, which have different directions, scope and technique of fishing. I strongly recommend always taking into account the nuances that I described above. Sometimes a small refinement or change in gear gives a significant increase in the quality of fishing, which is marked by the final catch. I hope that this material will help anglers in mastering the baits of this type. See you soon, dear readers!

The best, according to Andrei Pitertsov, “dipy” - diving wobblers with a large depth - for catching spinning pike, pike perch, perch in still water and during

Article A.Pitertsova " VEBLERY CLASS "DEEP" published in the magazine "Fishing in Russia."

Andrey Pitertsov: CLASSES "DEEP"

Part 1. Lovlya pike

Unfortunately, the “deep-wobblers” could not at one time gain widespread popularity among Russian spinningists, which, for example, cannot be said about the elemental love of our fishermen for minnows. And the explanations here are more or less clear and adequate. The average minnow crank holds a working horizon of 70-80 cm from the water surface. Compared to deeplines, it is much easier to control. It is necessary to slightly raise the spinning up, and the wobbler will go a couple of tens of centimeters closer to the surface, which sometimes only saves from a dead hold.

The most popular places for fishing on minnow - a small depth (rarely exceeding 2 m), an abundance of aquatic vegetation. Patterns are valid for both stagnant water and flow. In the first case, the main objects of fishing are pike and perch. In the second - chub, asp, on stony shallows (mostly at dusk) they catch perch. Most likely, this is what typical minnow fishing looks like for a spinningist of central Russia.

Returning to the topic of this article ... So in what cases do we need deep cranks? And the answer to this question is simple to ugliness - in those when the estimated fishing horizon exceeds 1.5 m. However, this border is not as clear as it may seem. It is just in cases when the required size of the mine does not reach the desired posting horizon, and the use of sinking wobblers is somewhat inappropriate, and they turn to dip.

In most cases, a wobbler with a large depth of its own is required (usually in SP versions). After all, you will agree, for example, it will be very problematic for sinking minnows in standing water at a depth of, say, about two meters to stir the passive pike. And to make this possible only when catching dips, which can literally play on the spot, which, in accordance with the general “snail” speed of the wiring, will provoke even a very sluggish pike to attack.

Why, in this case, I repeated so many times that it is about pike? Everything is very simple. It is precisely this predator that sometimes needs very slow wiring with the wobbler hanging in during pauses for 2-3 seconds. And perch in stagnant water often behaves differently. Sometimes only powerful jerks of a sinking wobbler, and wiring without pauses are able to start a striped "in a nasty mood." But this is a slightly different story ...

What do I mean by the term "deep wobblers"? In fact, there is no absolutely clear concept by which we can attribute this or that wobbler to deep, or, conversely, not to attribute. In general, it is generally accepted that cranks are one of the main differences to dipa: an enlarged blade (as compared with a medium-sized wobbler minnow), which, first of all, ensures its deep penetration.

The shape of the body of such cranks can be completely different - fat (fat), shad (shad) or the same minnow (minnow). All existing deep wobblers can be divided into two groups:

1. These are deep versions well known to most minnow angler anglers. Here, for example, in the model range of the firm Zip Baits there is a well-known line of wobblers Rigge. It is presented both in the form of a classic minnow crank (Zip Baits Rigge) and in the version of the dip (Zip Baits Rigge Deep). But, for example, the company Pontoon 21, the Crackjack wobbler model comes in three versions according to the degree of penetration, which corresponds to the special marking on the wobbler and packaging: SR - means Shallow Runner (“running in the surface layer”), MR - Medium Runner ( "Going in the middle layer"), DR - Deep Runner ("deep diver");

2. Independent, unique forms of deep wobblers. For example - Megabass Live-X Smolt, Liberty Bite 60SP, Cultiva Rip’n Minnow 70.

So, now let's simulate a certain list of situations in which we need the working properties of the “deepwaters”. Initially, I propose to break the whole structure into two fundamentally different directions: catching in standing water and catching in the current. And in each of these groups, we consider the specific situations that are most common in the reservoir.

Pike fishing in still water

These can be lakes, ponds, reservoirs, large river bays ... - in a word, anything, the main thing is standing water and a depth of more than one and a half meters. Of course, each place is inherently unique. In one, there is little bottom grass, in the other - a lot, in the third - the bottom is a curdling of the weft ... But it’s just the depth that unites all these places.

With a background depth of about 2 m (if the pike is active), you can also catch classic minnow with a depth of one meter. The predator will boldly climb into the upper layers and eagerly attack your wobblers. It is a pity that at such bite we get somewhere once out of twenty trips ... And the other nineteen pass like this: a maximum of ten bites, 7-8 of which (when fishing for wobblers) can be realized. And this is at best. And I wanted to say the following: many times more often we fall into the passive predator, which, due to many (external and internal) factors, refuses to “chase” too high wobblers.

Therefore, in 90% of cases, when fishing in stagnant water with a background depth of more than 1.5 m, we will need deep wobblers. And “honored”, first of all, will be the suspenders.

With the deepening of most pike (and not only) dipov the situation is as follows: the minimum value is 1.3 m, the maximum is about 3 m.

What is the result, that even with dipi we will be able to catch a maximum of 3.5-4 meter depths? Yes, this is a certain limit, which is impossible to “step over” (without “additional” equipment) when using classic pike dip-wobblers (up to 13-14 cm long) and catching in the fake. From this it follows that deep-wobblers will be as effective as possible at depths of up to 4 m.

It should be noted that the maximum attention when selecting a specific model of a wobbler should be paid to its working horizon and size. It is difficult for me at the moment to draw a clear picture of the dependence of the size of the wobbler and the number of bites, but, of course, it is present. The most catching wobbler at a specific time and for a specific place, I choose experimentally. It happens, it is worth reducing the size of a wobbler by 10-15 mm, and bites occur much more often. But still, the main indicator is not the size of the bait (it ranks second in importance), but its working horizon. During the course this is especially important, but sometimes in stagnant water, sometimes the lure passes 40-50 cm higher, and there will be no bite ... I have done so far more than once - and it is worthwhile to put a similar-sized wobbler, but deeper-water ... So I managed to catch 3 pikes from one place. It was on the Volga peals in the Saratov region.

As a rule, there will be no pike in a pond without shelters (aquatic vegetation, snags) and pike. Therefore, dipas often cling to algae and snags, sometimes rising several meters from the bottom. All this suggests that the place is promising, and the wobbler is in a good horizon.

Of course, a great help in such fishing will be provided by an echo sounder (in case you are fishing from a boat). You can clearly monitor the background depth, the structure of the bottom, the presence of blockages of sludge, plants, any "foreign objects" on it. And if you swim above 4-meter depth, and even a meter and a half from time to time the algae rises, and you do not catch a wobbler for them ..., therefore, we can conclude that you need to change the wobbler to a deeper water or change the braid to a thinner one (which is another two dozen centimeters "lowered" the working horizon of the bait).

When the bottom in the place of catching is hard - stones, clay, sand, there is nothing terrible if the wobbler several times for wiring will be stuck in the bottom. But it is to stick, not plow constantly. Here, for example, the American fun-pro has a clear stereotype. Krenk (and in most cases, it is this deep-water bait that is used for catching bass) must be in contact with the bottom objects several times for wiring (most often it is stones). What exactly attracts in this case the bass - the sound, the failure of the game ... or something else is unknown. Once, this was only a theory, but nowadays it has moved into the category of axioms. Now only the "lazy" traitor does not know about its existence. I can say that when catching Russian predators, this fact is also evident. Especially when fishing on the current, but we'll come back to this.

So, in stagnant water, of course, if there is a hard bottom, ideally, a wobbler should touch it a couple of times in its entire course. Of course, in the case of a silty bottom, the situation is exactly the opposite - any hurting is fraught with an impressive piece of “incomprehensible substance” in the bow of the wobbler, which leads to a complete loss of the bait's performance. But, I repeat, touching the grass and, to a lesser extent, snags are the norm when fishing for deep wobblers. They should not be afraid, they tell you that you are doing everything right.

From my position, the most productive wiring is a hard chaotic twitching, which I mostly use when fishing for pike. It is this wiring that is most “liking” the pike, both in the active phase and in the passive one. Just like when catching a hard chaotic twitching on minnow, at the moment of the next jerk, the own game should not manifest itself in dips, or I will say differently - you should minimize its manifestations. For this it is necessary to carry out jerks more strongly and sharply. Just as in the case of minnow, deep-wobblers should “fly” from side to side in a chaotic sequence, deviating as much as possible from their own axis.

My favorite wobblers for catching pike in still water.

Cultiva Rip’n Minnow 70SP

At one time for me, this wobbler was number one, not only for catching a river pikeperch, but also for catching pike, both in standing water and in the current. Somewhere around the year 2000, I was just beginning to gain experience in catching deep wobblers. True, I did not know then, neither how such wobblers are designated, nor how to catch them. I caught fishing, focusing on the depth of the burial, in those places where the classic minnow went too close to the surface, and the predator was clearly deep in the depths. When fishing for pike (this wobbler), I use the classics - hard chaotic twitching. The working horizon is 1.5-1.6 m.

Duel Hardcore LB-70SP

This is another model of wobbler, which I want to say separately. The working horizon is 2-2.3 m. It feels like I have been catching it for a thousand years. The super-tested model that goes into battle on an unfamiliar body of water is among the first. Already at the beginning of the century, this wobbler pleased me with pikes and pike-perch on the Oka River, as well as when fishing from a boat on lakes of various sizes, I liked to catch on it and on small and medium-sized rivers. Here is a long-lived. To this day, he has not lost his catchiness.

I started laying out my favorite and tested deep-wobblers for pike fishing, and I realized that there was hardly any point in writing about each model separately. Just because nothing "strongly new" from the transition from one wobbler to another will not appear. So I decided to summarize. A little thought, I want to note that with all of the wobblers listed below in still water I catch the pike with hard, chaotic twitching, and I consider it the best animation style for “one-part” deep crankbaits. Actually the list itself looks like this: Zip Baits Rigge Deep 70 ° F, Zip Baits Rigge Deep 56 ° F, Zip Baits Khamsin-DR Jr., Pontoon 21 Crackjack 58 ° F DR, Megabass Live-X Leviathan SP, Liberty Pitty 75SP, Liberty Bite 60 and 90 SP, Ima Farina 90 ° F (which is interesting - in the Farina model range there is also a “100%" deep Farina Deep 85 ° F, nevertheless, the regular Farina 90 ° F is several times more popular than its „namesake “). If you do not peck on these models, then believe me, they will not peck on any others! And this will mean only one thing - in the pond, or in a particular place, there is simply no“ adequate ”predator.

By the way, it seems that a whole new direction is opening up in the subject of deep wobblers - sinking models. And the flagship here is the well-known company Zip Baits, which splashed onto the market the absolute novelty of this year - the Rigge Deep 70S and the Rigge Deep 56S. ... what to do with them is not yet clear, but the fact that the Rigge’s working horizon is expanding is certain.

The most popular deep wobblers are certainly suspenders. It is they who open up the widest possibilities for us in the wiring, namely, the duration of pauses (which, of course, has a very positive effect on catching a passive predator). But it's easier to lose them, with a floating dip, you just have to wait a bit, and it will pop up. There you can “pull” more than one obstacle. With the suspender such a focus will not work. But you have to pay for everything in this life ...

As for spinning rods and coils ... I will not reveal anything new to you. Basically, I catch the same sets as when catching minnow using the method of “hard chaotic twitching”. Two of my main spinning for this purpose are Black Hole Bassmania 7 ’4.5-16 g and Major Craft Day’s 7’3" 5-14 g.

For long-distance fishing, or when a longer rod is simply necessary, I use Banax Blade 8'3 »4-18 g. By the way, I can recommend a very slim, and at the same time powerful rod from the new products that have recently appeared on the Russian market. Major Craft Terrier 7'6 "6-25 g. With a weight of 138 g, its upper limit on the line is 17 Lb, which reflects the power embedded in it. And the rod, in turn, is well combined with both wobblers and jig fishing. I think in the near future there will be a lot of interesting reviews about this model, which, of course, does not detract from the merits of the entire line as a whole. As in many other areas of spinning fishing, my choice among reels fell on Daiwa, namely on two models - Certate 2506 Finesse Custom, Daiwa Exist 2506 or 2508.

For fishing on deep wobblers at this stage of my own development, I use only braided fishing line. As a rule, these are braids marked on the X4 package, which indicates the origin of this fishing line from 4 threads woven together. Weaving this in appearance resembles a regular pigtail. As I said in earlier publications, most of the braids can be divided into woven from 4 or from 8 threads (X8). X8 - many times more expensive than X4, and reveals its potential only when fishing on a jig (it has much less stretching). For our purposes, X4 is enough. The most popular diameters are 0.8-1.5. If we talk about specific brands, then most often I catch on YGK JigMan X4, PE-EGI HG and Daiwa Surf Sensor.

But in the use of mono, when fishing for dipy, I do not see any advantage (as opposed to mine fishing). All attempts to increase the horizon of the work of a wobbler can suddenly break against the enormous resistance of a thick mono-structure in the water, which in turn not only does not contribute to a greater depth of the wobbler, but, on the contrary, will bring it closer to the surface. That is why only braid. Do you want your wobbler to go as deep as possible - put a braid with a diameter of 0.8, and even better 0.6. It takes a little (50-60 cm) to bring the wobbler close to the surface - then 1.5 or 2. (Note: diameters of the woods are given according to the Japanese classification.)

Pike fishing

First, I will tell you what the similarities with pike fishing in still water are, and then I will point out the differences that make fishing in a current unique and unique.

"Affinity" is in many ways: I use the same set of gear, the same wobblers (all the models I listed very well keep the jet), the same reels and almost the same fishing line. As a rule, leaning in favor of a smaller diameter, due to its smaller “sail”.

But the main essence of the "difference" is that the absolute majority of predators (including pike) in the current lead to the near-bottom life (or "pre-subject", that is, they are always located tightly with shelter, sometimes merging with him), making throws for closer distances, rather than in stagnant water. This leads to some nuances and “tricks”, which we will talk about next time ...

So, I suggest starting the second part of the material by continuing the conversation on the “pike theme”. The main difference between catching pike in the current from catching in a standing one is parking places, or ambushes of a predator.

During the course, the pike is most often “lapped” and pressed against any underwater objects, as a rule, located along the current in such a way that the predator can merge with this object as if into a single whole. At the same time, it turns out to be completely or partially hidden from the powerful flow of the river. Such a disguise is very convenient and practical. She and the flow "poboku", and follow what is happening around the most comfortable.

Such objects can serve as bundles of algae, snags, various "foreign" objects, as well as steep brows, which are also an ideal resting place and at the same time ambush. Thus, the course makes its own significant adjustments to the flow and type of bait. In this case, it is not enough (most often) to hold the bait 1-1.5 m from the pike, you need to "get under your nose."

Fishing in small rivers

Almost all the "pike" small rivers can be divided into two types:

1. Rivers with no sharp drops in depths, steep ridges. Typical places of pike dislocation for these conditions are shelters in the form of algae, snags, coastal reeds ... or all of this combined.

2. Rivers with the presence of these very brovok. Here, a large number of predators just to the edge, but, of course, this does not exclude the meeting with the spotted as in the first case, in the grass. There are a lot of different situations, and even more exceptions to them.

In the first case, quite often the pike is found in detached tufts of grass, elongated with the flow. The grass may be at a completely different depth, but it unites all these places one. If you catch on minnow and drag it over the grass, and even in grinding, it often does not give anything. But we only need to take a deep lure and bring it to this tuft of grass not in its upper part, but closer to the base ... You will not have to wait long for the pike.

This suggests that the pike, most likely, stood between the grass and the bottom, or among the algae, but, nevertheless, closer to the bottom. With such a feed bait in front of us opens its main property when fishing in the current. The dip rests on a bunch of grass with a shovel, a lever is created, and the wobbler rolls over the bunch without clinging to it. What does not happen when fishing for minnows? Thus, when using dipov, it is possible to harvest the space almost under a tuft of grass.

Of course, grass grass discord. Such a focus will be obtained only if there is a decent flow and hard grass. If, with standard tees, your wobbler is still dead after time, it is inserted into a bunch of grass, you should change the tees, putting a couple of smaller sizes. So I did before ...

But there is a more cardinal and effective way. Swap native tees to match their identical odniki, mounted them on a wobbler without using the winding rings.

I make single ones from doubles, biting off one hook. Thus, at the ear of the hook there is a clasp, with which I fix my twin on the loop of the wobbler. A single hook should be slightly bent in such a way that both stings on the ready bait are looking up. It turns out very simple and practical design.

At the World Championships in Kazakhstan in 2009, somehow, quite by chance, I had a conversation with the athletes of the national team of Ukraine on this topic. To which I heard in response that they have long used large odnarnikami in some cases when fishing for wobblers. But at the head they put precisely good cross-cutting when fishing for pike and a smaller number of gatherings - such is the opinion.

Personally, I did not notice that the odnnik helps better to detect the predator, but if it still caught sight of it, the “seemingly” gatherings are really less.

When fishing among the grass, I most often catch soft twitching, but when I first touch the seaweed lure, I switch to hard chaotic twitching. This makes it more likely to protect the crank from the hook, or if it happened - with a single jerk to cut (if at all possible) a separate sprig of algae, for which the crank caught.

Quite often, the pike hides behind the driftwood, or in the rubble of the snags. Where we have to catch dips, as a rule, the snag on the bottom is not visible. Too much depth. Therefore, unfortunately, we can only learn about its presence after a hook, what is even worse - the loss of several wobblers. When fishing from the shore (when you can’t reach the snag), I prefer to avoid such places. A few detached favorite wobblers on the basis of fishing can cool even the warmest memories of catching fish.

As for the blockages of the pruner - you can’t polish it tightly ... and there’s no point in driving two meters from the curtain, so I don’t catch the rubble in the wobblers. It is much easier and more productive to put a jig bait mounted on an offset bag.

Fishing (in deep) in conditions of small rivers (and even from the shore) with strong depth differences and steep ridges is difficult, and is interpreted by many anglers as “light insanity on wobblers”. But she has her supporters.

As we have already spoken with you, the predator is more often in a passive, "sluggish" state. And what works well for us on passive fish in conditions of flow and sudden drops in depths is, first of all, a diversion lead and a light jig, or rather, a lightweight jig bait (about 1.5-2 times). Both one and the other have a very positive experience in using it on small rivers. Here, first of all, it is not the maximum width of the river that is important, but, on the contrary, the minimum.

Djigovoy bait mounted on the offset hook can be caught even in a puddle diameter of a meter, there are no restrictions. But it is convenient to tap the tap-off when the width of the river is at least 10 m, and not too many logs lying across the stream. Although this tooling is basically and point-like, there is a need for decent deployment.

I successfully caught the passive predator in a small river with steep brows, but ... The main problem is this. Now it is a little hard for me to formulate a clear and understandable system of predator response to a particular spinning bait. But there is an opinion (and I agree with him one hundred percent) that each fish has its own bait, or different baits will catch different fish.

Thus, it turns out that if there is an interesting place in front of us that we initially caught with a jig and caught 1-2 pikes, finding out that, most likely, there are no protruding snags from this edge itself, and there is an opportunity to try to drive the dip to the very edge or go to her lapping, definitely worth a wobbler. It often happens that you can catch another 1-2 pikes. Of course, I would try and tap, maybe something else pecked.

And when you consider that during a day of walking along a small river (as a rule), one can find 1-2-3 places of pike accumulation. That your catch may differ at times, only on whether you put a lure or a tap in each place or not.

Most brovok on a small river (including the most workers) "stretched" along the coastline. That is why the most comfortable to catch from a boat, gradually fusing downstream. But this is the way most of the spinningists of Russia (including me) work, that 99.9% of all fishermen on a small river are coastal. Therefore, if we talk about spinning, and it depends on him not only the “weight”, but also the moral outcome of fishing, I would advise you to pay attention to the lengths of 7’6 "- 8'5".

Basically, when fishing from a boat, I advise and catch 7-foot and shorter spinning. But in a small river, often the majority of successful postings come down to catching along the coast and for demolition, where an extra foot (as paradoxical as it sounds) plays a very significant role.

If, nevertheless, you prefer to fish from a boat, my recommendations are reduced to the classic spinning spinning machines, which I, and far from me alone, prefer to catch on “medium-sized pike” wobblers: Black Hole Bassmania 7 '4.5-16 g and Major Craft Day's 7'3 "5-14 y.

In addition to wobblers, both rods fit well with a jig and diverter leash. If you are “onshore”, then pay attention to the Graphiteleader Tiro 7'6 "1-12 g, Banax Blade 8'3" 4-18 g and the novelty of this season Black Hole Magic Breeze 2.4 m 4-18 g. All three Spinning is different, but it is them (recently) that I catch in the overwhelming majority of wobblers, including on small rivers.

Tiro is the shortest and easiest of the three, catching them using the method of "soft twitching", stop & go.

Blade is most often used for dynamic fishing in the style of "hard chaotic twitching." He has a decent supply of power, which is important when fishing on a small river, when almost all the fish have to be raised with spinning on a steep bank. Blade will also be an excellent tool for jigging and diverting, and not only in conditions of small rivers.

Magic Breeze - very fresh model from the famous Korean manufacturer Black Hole. This is a truly harmonious model, its lightness and slimness perfectly combined with the length. My opinion is this: the rod is designed for fishing on small rivers, when you need a little more length than that of classic twitch spinning (7 feet) for more convenient wiring parallel to the shore and for demolition. In addition, in all those cases when at the head of the corner is every meter in the range of a cast. The rod is also well combined with a jig and a side in its test range. Moreover, its length allows you to successfully catch them both from the shore and from a boat.

... I can not add a few words about the performance - it feels like the Koreans have “surpassed” themselves, denoting a new, extremely high bar for their “intra-Korean” competitors.

In addition, close attention should be paid to the choice of the diameter of the fishing line. With an increase in diameter of only 0.03 mm (say from 0.11 to 0.14), the “sail” of the braid increases by an order of magnitude, and therefore your dip will go 40-50 cm higher. There is no clear table of compliance of these parameters. A lot of different introductory circumstances. But, of course, it is worth remembering this pattern in the case of too deep, or, on the contrary, insufficient - first of all, you should change the slope of the spinning (if it is convenient), lowering the tulip to the water, or vice versa, raising it high. In the second - "play" with the diameter of the braid.

It is also worth a few words to say about the specific models of the dipes, with which I catch pike in small rivers. But I will not reveal any sensation to you here ... This is the same set as for catching pike in still water, because they all hold the jet perfectly: Zip Baits Rigge Deep 70 ° F, Zip Baits Rigge Deep 56 ° F, Zip Baits Khamsin- DR Jr., Pontoon 21 Crackjack 58 ° F, Megabass Live-X Leviathan, Liberty Pitty 75, Liberty Bite 60, Liberty Bite 90, Ima Farina 90, Duel Hardcore LB-70, Cultiva Rip'n Minnow 70.

With the only proviso that in the current I use floating models more often. And the thing is this. The passive (and any other) fish bites at the suspenders better, at the floating ones (as a rule) it is worse, because they float at slowdowns in the wiring and stops. But when hitting an obstacle, a floating lure can be circled through the “barrier”, letting it float up (accordingly, there are fewer losses of lures).

With a suspender such a trick will not work. You can only try to work with the flow - if it is present at the point of catching. Slightly give up the slack so that the wobbler drifts, then, raising the rod high up, try to hold it in the layer a little higher. But this technique does not always help. But the rebound of a floating wobbler from an obstacle, the subsequent short pause and wiring at a slightly slower pace is a very effective technique that works (thereby excluding the hook) in 70 - 80% of cases. At the bottom of a small river, all that your favorite wobbler can catch is enough, so it's best to catch it on floating dips. But in the conditions of large rivers, the situation is somewhat different, which we shall now discuss.

Fishing on the big river

This is precisely the section to which the “American axiom” is most applicable about the periodic grazing of a wobbler for the bottom. Namely, about 3-4 times for the whole distance wiring.

It so happened that my whole experience of pike fishing on a large river, with the exception of shallow water with grass, or shallow bays with a shallow depth, boils down to fishing either in shallow holes with different edges, or directly on the shallow edges themselves.

On many large rivers, there are places with an abundance of pike, but without blockages. As I said, we are primarily interested in shallow semi grooves - semi fossa. It is best of all if the background depths in the pit will not exceed 5-6 m - it is to this depth that the wiring not only along the edges, but also through the pit will be as effective as possible. My favorite places are similar holes, stretched along the stream with a depth of no more than 4-5 m, at the top of the edge, as a rule, the depths range from 1 to 2 m. Just the same number of crankbaits of cranks work in these ranges.

When fishing from a boat, it is best to get up very close to one of the eyebrows, moving a few meters to a shallower area. At the same time, the wobbler will begin to work in depth, gradually (being demolished by the flow) approaching the brow and slowly moving along it to a smaller area.

Actually, this is the classic situation in most cases when fishing from the shore on a large river and if there is a border “underfoot”. As a rule, the bottom in such places is sandy-clay. The undoubted indicator of a good place is small patches of shells - zebra mussels. These shells do not promise anglers dead hooks, so do not be afraid for the safety of wobblers when posting "tightly" to the bottom.

We have just considered the option when it is possible to catch only one curb. Often it depends on the size of the fossa. They are such that it is simply impossible to reach the opposite edge.

But, quite often on large rivers there are “compact” indentations in the river bottom, both edges of which are harvested from one setting of a boat, or one position on the bank. Especially personally from my own experience I can say that these (compact) places are the most fishy. It is hard to give an explanation of why this is so, but statistics say that.

It is best of all to catch a compact hole in the following way: we try to reach the bottom in shallow water on the other side of the pit at a fairly active pace, at a 45 degree drop downstream through the pit. In this case, I prefer to catch with suspenders, since the number of hooks is almost zero.

After the first blow to the bottom in an unhurried pace, we start the wiring. I usually catch in such a situation with a “soft twitching”, the wobbler periodically scratches along the bottom, after which the contact with the bottom disappears. This means only one thing - the wobbler went down the curb. Before the near edge of the situation is repeated - lure stuck in curb. Here I usually raise the spinning as high as possible and at the unhurried pace of the same “soft twitching”, I bring the wobbler closer to the surface. Poklevka can be found anywhere, but most often closer to one of the edges.

Quite large wobblers that quickly and rapidly reach a given depth are very good in such places - for example, Megabass Live-X Leviathan, Imakatsu Super Killer Bill, Liberty Bite 90.

The “actively diving” class also includes the legendary Duel Hardcore LB-70, but because of its not very outstanding flight data (compared to the above) on a large river, its lot is fishing under the feet or fishing from a boat.

And one more small argument in favor of deep water in a big river. It happens, you catch "not at all" in a similar place, everyone catches a jig and a diversion, and you hang a wobbler and catch "your fish." True, to be completely honest to the end, the last two times it turned out exactly the opposite.

Once I caught on the side, and Mishin Artem caught a pike at a large lure deep under the coastline. The second time I caught a jig, and one of the three spinningists (who caught nearby) also caught a small pike on a dip. I remember that day - we then had for two for a whole day and there was no bite. And at parting spinners said that today's catch is nonsense. Yesterday they caught more than a dozen pikes for three, and everything from that place, and didn’t peck at the jig ... Which once again confirms the theory: each bait has its own fish.

As for fishing gear on a big river for wobblers, I would recommend the same spinning ropes as mentioned for fishing on small rivers. With the only observation that for “soft spinning” both 7- and 8-foot spinning rods will be equally comfortable, the whole question is about personal preferences and sympathies.

Part 2. SUDAK LOVING

In the two previous spinning numbers of the magazine "Fishing in Russia" we talked about fishing for pike on wobblers deep in standing water and on the course. In this publication, I propose to consider the various options for catching deep bait perch.

Pike perch fishing

My whole experience of catching perch on the stream comes down to four main rivers: the Oka, the lower Moskva River, the lower Klyazma and the Pekhorka. I do not exclude that in other rivers and in other regions of Russia, perch behavior may differ from behavior in the above-mentioned water bodies. Therefore, drawing conclusions, I will rely on the experience from the listed rivers.

In principle, the basic formulation of the need to use exactly crankbaits is the same as when fishing for pike, and I think when catching all other fish. This is the horizon of finding and feeding the predator. The pike perch, as well as a pike on a current (in the majority of places) leads the near-bottom way of life. With the only difference that pike perch in the period of feeding - in the morning dawn, sunset and systematically at night, goes to the shallow (and not quite shallow) rifts. Where he perpetrates reprisals against "all living things" that fit him in size.

From the behavior of the pike here there are two main differences. In the spotted one, as a rule, such clear peaks of activity are not observed, the predator is an ambush who spends most of the time hiding behind cover. The pike is a loner, it does not go to feed in flocks, as the pike perch does, and it almost never feeds at night. However, occasionally pike comes across when fishing for zander. In my experience, one pike is caught somewhere on a 4-5 night fishing trip, which, you see, rather speaks about exclusion, not about the rule.

So, now I will try to classify my experience regarding the behavior of pike perch on the rivers of central Russia. Since the duration of the night is a changeable period, the peaks of pike-perch activity also change at night. It is hard for me to name any exact figures when it is better to catch a fanged dog at night. Depending on the time of year, region, particular features of a particular river, these intervals vary. The best thing about this will tell you a couple of full nights spent on the pond. Only two stages in its feeding are almost unchanging - this is 30-40 minutes before dark, and somewhere an hour before sunrise. I remember cases - ten years ago, when on the Oka the pike perch hit these two peaks of activity so ruthlessly that the fry hit that from afar it seemed that a pack of asp was operating. With the only difference that the battle takes place near the very edge of the water. During the battle, the pike perch was caught very badly, but if you managed to be on the spot a little before that, or linger a little after ... even with that my nasty level of fishing and tackle, without a pair of three pike perch, I rarely stayed. At that time I was catching in such places on shallow 7-8 centimeter wobblers.

In the afternoon, perch clearly sticks to great depths. It is unlikely that someone can say exactly what he is doing there ... I think he is resting, digesting what he managed to fill in during short periods of feeding. At this time, he, too, pecks on various lures of spinningists - jig, retractable leash, wobblers deep. But, as a rule, its nibble is mild and highly variable from day to day. I think this is a fairly logical rationale for his behavior. After all, he must once have a rest, and if he is a “night predator with a strong margin”, then he can only rest during the day.

During the daytime, zander takes places (I can draw conclusions only from my own experience) with a depth of at least 3-4 m. It is attracted by completely diverse relief changes: edges, pits, especially exits from them. During this period, the easiest and most effective way is to catch it with a jig or diverter lead. Of course, you can and dipami, for example, on the top of the edge, but here we wobblers will not give a clear advantage over the already listed methods of fishing. Of course, wobblers will catch their fish, but catching them in these places is not very convenient, due to the limited horizon of 3.5-4.5 meters.

Much more interesting is fishing for zander during its release. And wobblers, in particular deep versions, come out here to the main roles. The hardest thing is to find a place where the appearance of zander is most guaranteed. After all, I don’t want to spend an hour of good fishing searching for places. And not much will be able to examine during this time. Ten years ago, pike perch betrayed itself, so it was easier to detect it. Now, often, its feeding is not reflected on the surface in any way, and therefore it is necessary to look for such places by indirect signs. The best “gunner” is a fry. You understand that he must be present on the spot, otherwise what pikeperch will do here.

The fry, as a rule, does not like the current, so it is packed in small corners with standing water right under the shore. But in the vicinity there must be a flow, better with large stones at the bottom. This is the perfect place for feeding perch. Believe, it is rather difficult to give any other recommendations in choosing a place. These factors are the most significant. It is from them and is worth repelling.

It often happens that in this place an asp and a chub peck in the afternoon. This is another indisputable sign and assistant in choosing a place for catching zander. That is, if you have successfully caught in some place of asp or chub in the afternoon, with high probability we can say that the pike will be pulled here a little later.

During the period of zander activity, its fishing is 99.9% reduced to fishing in the current, and, as a rule, on a fairly powerful jet. And the only convenient bait for such fishing will be wobblers. All places are essentially different, but, as a rule, they all share the same thing - this is the presence of depths from 1 to 2-2.5 m. Of course, there are also shallow-water points with background depths of up to 1 m, where they successfully catch on classic minnow. But there are many productive places with depths of more than a meter, where we will need wobblers deep.

The main requirement for wobblers for fishing in such conditions is to superbly keep the jet and go at a given depth. In such cases, I like to catch on floating models, which are much easier to manage on the course. But the suspenders are also suitable. I am not inclined to believe that zander during the "exit" is very picky about the size and type of wobbler. Therefore, I successfully apply completely diverse forms, starting with classic minnows and ending with full-fledged rolls.

As for the size. My most working - from 50 to 70 mm. I do not see any reason to use larger models, since I also caught a pike perch at the 70-ku. And since recently, the pike perch in the main rivers of the central region has been severely crushed ... the need is no longer necessary. But, for example, beyond the Urals the situation is somewhat different, therefore completely different models of wobblers may be in demand there, a size larger. The flip, pleasant side of catching small wobblers (“fifty dollars”) is the systematic bite of the chub, which also does not rest at all at night.

A much more important indicator is the horizon wiring. For this we need a wide variety of crankbaits. The pike perch reacts much better to a wobbler when it goes very close to the bottom, periodically touching it.

As for the colors. I did not notice any obvious preferences. Classic, proven colors work well, either “under the fry” or “chartreuse”. But they peck at others too ...

About options for posting. As for the perch, I have long ceased to "reinvent the plane." It works great either simple uniform wiring at an average pace, or even with small decelerations — accelerations, something close to a soft twitching for a current.

I singled out 10 basic deep lures which, in my opinion, are best caught in perch.

Zip Baits Rigge Deep 70 F

The legendary brand, the legendary wobbler ... Agree, it was difficult enough to imagine that he would not catch a pike perch in the current, or not to keep the stream ... The working horizon is 1.2-1.4 m.

Liberty Bite 60 F

This wobbler is a revelation for me last season. Flies well, catches well. Of course, the pike was caught on him most of all, but this bait has already managed to “get to know each other” with pikeperch. The working horizon is 1.8-2.2 m.

Duel Hardcore LB-70

For a long time, I “lay down legends” about him. It was one of those with which my fishing practice began. And he is still in high esteem. So there is a reason ... The working horizon is 2.2-2.6 m.

Yo-Zuri Arms Shad Micro

And this is my very first deep wobbler, from which all fishing on the Oka began in 1999. To this day in the ranks. His charm in size - both perch and chub bite him well. The working horizon is 1-1.2 m.

Cultiva Rip’n Minnow 70

... but I caught the pike perch most of all on this wobbler. So it happened. If someone asks me about catching zander on a deep wobbler with a working horizon of about 1.5 m, the first thing I remember is, of course, Rip'n Minnow 70. Time passes, and it is still as good as before.

OSP Dunk 48 SP

I discovered this wobbler when catching perch, but later I caught both perch and chub quite well. A distinctive feature - with its modest dimensions it has a very, very decent depth (with a Japanese braid with a nominal value of 0.5-0.6). The working horizon is 2.2 - 2.6 m.

Megabass Griffon MR-X

Very noisy and “smart” cranks. Excellent holding jet. Good for catching both a chub and a pike perch at the same time. The working horizon is 1.3-1.6 m.

ZipBaits MIDGET Rattler

Excellent Sudak-chub from the most famous producer. Stable, noisy, catching ... in fact, there is nothing more to add and nothing to. The working horizon is 2-2.4 m.

Pontoon21 Crackjack 58 F DR

Only a season ago, either fanatic anglers or sportsmen (basically the same fanatics) knew about this trademark, and now these are sold in almost every fishing store in the country, and not just ours ... There are two reasons for this: excellent Japanese quality in proportion to the "very tasty" price. It seems the firm Pontoon21 breaks the stereotypes ... As for Crackjack 58 F DR Excellent keeps the stream, perfectly catches the perch. The working horizon is 2.3-2.5 m.

ANGLERS REPUBLIC T.T.M-Shad 48SP

Another obvious representative of the class "I will try to catch what they bite." And perch, and asp, and chub, and perch - all this is in the power of one wobbler. Stream holds well, goes into the depth quickly and rapidly. At the end of the blade is equipped with a metal ball. Many people think that it prevents the scapula from chipping off when fishing on a rocky bottom. Perhaps ... But that's not the point, the main thing is that he catches well. The working horizon is 2.4-2.7 m.

Now it’s worth a few words to say about tackles and in particular about spinning. I think it’s not worth mentioning that (for fishing on a current on wobblers deep) spinning should be easy, sensitive ... These are classic requirements that apply to absolutely all rods. It is better to talk about some specific qualities when choosing a rod for fishing in the current. The main difference is the presence of the current at the point of catching, and, as a rule, a strong current. The current + strong resistance of the wobbler dip during wiring tells us that the spinning in its butt part must be powerful enough so that it simply does not wrap “in the ring” on the wiring ... and if the fish also sits down ...

It seems that everything is obvious and understandable ... But you can not imagine how much I suffered at the beginning of the development of such a catch. At first I caught on a fairly "light" rod for such conditions, which were bent almost from the handle even when I was wired. As a result, in order to simply pull out fish of more than 600-700 g, I had to go downstream, and not drag it up. Then I switched to more powerful ones, and eventually more difficult ones. Thus, the number of gatherings has increased, and the pleasure of vyvazhivanija too powerful spinning decreased.

It was a long way. In the end, I stopped at the rods with a fairly soft tip and a powerful butt, which allowed us to confidently pump out even large Sudak. According to the type, these rods are ideal for jigging and catching with a diverter lead.

From specific models, I can advise Black Hole Bassmania 7 '4.5-16 g., Major Craft Day's 7'3 "5-14 g. Both spinning will be perfectly combined with all wobblers listed in this material. By the way, for those who wish the thrill of such fishing, I can recommend the lightest and at the same time powerful rod Graphiteleader Veloce 6'4 "1.75-10.5 g. Its weight is only 102 g, but it fits the definition of" soft tip - hard butt. Last winter season I managed to catch a few pike perches on a wobbler at night, the sensations are just “freaky”.

By the way, and American manufacturers are famous for rods of such a system. And a vivid example of this is my favorite and “long-suffering” Lamiglas Certified PRO 6'6 "10.5-21 g. I don’t know more powerfully than spinning in this“ size ”. It is good for both boat jigging, fishing on small rivers, and Catching wobblers on the course. I was also very pleased with the new product from St. Croix, the model Legend Elite 7 '3.5-10.5 g. Excellent indicators of lightness and "slimness" of this spinning speak for themselves. And, of course , a distinctive, trademark "sign" of Americans - the highest sensitivity, unwittingly attracts additional attention.

I do not see the point in detail on the coils. Here everyone decides for himself what he likes more. Let me just say that the most optimal size for such fishing is 2000-2500.

But about braided it is worth saying a few words. Much depends on her in this situation. Namely, the deepening of a wobbler. Not many times in my articles I have already spoken about the direct regularity of the diameter and depth of the wobbler wiring, so now I see no reason to repeat now. Let me just say that the most optimal denomination will be 0.8. With thinner there will be many annoying cliffs, the thicker one already has strong resistance in the course. Which is critical, especially when fishing on wobblers deep.

Pike perch fishing in still water

Probably, if I had at least understood something in this matter ... such a section would have taken place. But, unfortunately, while my experience suggests otherwise. I tried, and more than once, but somehow it is not very effective ...

But to create a material that is as complete as possible in its structure, it’s worth saying that there are two main directions in catching perch in still water to deep wobblers.

1. It is fishing in shallow parts of the reservoir. They can be navels, braids ... leaving their peaks to a depth of less than 4 m. In this case (for some, including athletes), fishing develops very effectively when fishing for dipy.

2. It is catching over an interesting topography during a thermocline (temperature and oxygen separation of water). It often happens that the pike perch just rises up above its habitat, and it is successfully enough caught on wobblers deep in the middle layers of the water. In this case, wobblers with a depth of 3 to 4 m work best. I remember a case when competitions were won with this method. It was on the Ruza reservoir in the midst of the heat. The calm weather and the thermocline forced the pike perch to climb into the middle layers of the water, where it was successfully caught in dipy. Most often, with such a catching use classic uniform wiring.

But I am still inexperienced in this matter. Well, maybe it's for the best. Be sure to plan a similar fishing for the current season.

Part 3. Okun's fishing

In the three previous spinning numbers "Fishing in Russia" we talked about fishing for pike on deep cranks in standing water and during, as well as fishing for pike perch. Finally, the most "sporting" theme remained - perch twitching wobblers deep. It’s already impossible to count how many competitions were won with the help of “perch deep-waterers”, this is one of the most popular themes not only among sportsmen-fishermen, but also among ordinary spinningists of Russia.

Catching perch in still water

To begin with, let's try to figure out exactly what conditions (when catching a perch) so deeply needed wobblers are needed.

If you try to answer as briefly and clearly as possible, you will get something like this: in cases where the perch for one reason or another is at a depth of more than a meter. Absolutely in all these cases we will need our “deep divers”. True, there is another class of wobblers who are able to successfully catch deep bass. These are fast-sinking wobblers of minnow. The main feature of which is just the same their ability to sink, and very quickly.

On the one hand it is good, on the other not very. Based on the personal experience and experience of many Russian athletes, I can say that the perch is extremely negative about the “free fall” of such cranks during pauses. The perch pursued by your bait begin to literally scatter in all directions as soon as you pause in the wiring of the fast-sinking mine. Of course, this does not apply to the boiler, fattening perch. He sometimes doesn’t care how and in which plane the lure moves, the main thing for him is to “have time to snatch” before his brother in the pack. But ... any “feast” once ends, and the perch, having distributed more or less evenly across the water area, begins to be very selective about the baits and the methods of their presentation.

So, returning to our case with a fast-cranking wobbler ... The pause in the wiring does not like this wobbler, therefore it remains to catch hard monotonous twitching without pauses from beginning to end. But, despite the seeming prostate wiring, sometimes it is soma efficient, even when catching inactive perch. Maybe she starts it - is unknown, but the fact is undeniable.

However, this happens quite rarely. Much more often a perch "like" stopping and hanging a wobbler for a while. And for this, we would ideally need suspenders, or at least floating models. Not drowning. Here we are with you and come to a clear understanding of why we need perch dipa. These wobblers go for the necessary depth for catching and they hang in the water during pauses.

In fact, the perch is very often at a depth of one to three meters. This is one of his favorite horizons. And it is precisely this depth (for some reason) that most of the stretches, bays (if we are talking about large reservoirs), or ponds and small lakes have, where we most often catch perch.

Perch dipa (floating version, or suspenders) allow us to successfully catch a layer of water just about three, a maximum of three and a half meters. In order to force the “perch cranks” to go deeper, special devices can no longer be done. What you can use, for example, a lead leash. But that's another story ...

So, what we have come to. We have a perch in an inactive (and as a rule, it is just that) condition at a depth of one to three meters. We found out that he responds best to small wobblers with a dip (up to 60-65 mm), in a floating version, or better - suspender. So how best to catch and what is needed for this ...?

First, we need a thin braid, really thin, and even better, “extremely thin”, for example, 0.4 (according to the Japanese classification). In millimeters, it is somewhere around 0.1 mm. The breaking load of such a braid usually does not exceed 2.3-2.4 kg (according to test indicators on a dynamometer). This is the optimal fishing line, which will allow you to fight with a two-kilogram pike, and free the wobbler from the shoots of algae, of which there is plenty in good perch places.

But why should we risk so much ...? I think a similar question many now puzzled. Is it worth it to put a thicker braid? The fact is that it is in this kind of fishing, when we try to drive a small bait to the maximum depth, even with a relatively small throwing distance, the diameter of the braid (and as a result its resistance to water) is most important. Including on the pages of this edition, I have repeatedly wrote that, for example, the American professional pro speakers have whole “summary tables” which wobbler and at what diameter of the fishing line at what depth will go. They know how important it is to correctly choose the diameter based on the conditions of fishing.

And just recently (at the second stage of the Cup of Russia), I again came, for the umpteenth time, on the same rake. I could not understand for a long time why none of the tried and tested dipes could go deeper than one and a half meters. The answer was simple. The fault is the cord 0.8 (about 0.15 mm.). I set it up for some reinsurance when fishing in a new place for myself. And then I wondered why the wobblers are not deepened ...

In addition to the use of thin cords in combination with perch dipa catching, there is one more very important nuance. Each cast must try to do as far as possible. For deeps, the distance has always been a significant value. After all, the further you throw, the deeper it goes ... And another important fact: do not start twitching immediately after splitting a wobbler, first drive it to the working depth with 6-8 turns of the coil handle at an average pace.

The twitching technique imposes its imprint on the movement of wobblers deep. One of the most important criteria by which you can accurately understand how everything works out right for you comes down to the following: if your jerks are too strong, the wobbler will stray from the “set course” and rush up to the surface behind the line.

How to understand, strongly or weakly you twitch? Throw a wobbler (for example, with a depth of 2 m), without driving to the working depth, start twitching. If, when approaching the shore or boat, the wobbler goes to a depth of less than a meter, it means that the jerks are too strong. Lure can not hold the horizon, it constantly throws in the upper layers. On the next posting, try jerks of a slightly smaller force ... And so on until the wobbler goes deeper than 1.2-1.3 m. Once you left, try to remember which jerks of strength you used. It is always necessary, as it were, to “walk along the blade”.

The fact is that the perch (including the passive one) loves the sharp fast movements of the wobbler. But, having gone too far, we will raise a crank deep into the upper layers, in which there is simply no perch (let us assume that it is not) ... Here you have the principle of fishing on the verge. Many models of wobblers are unique, and therefore require a personal approach. It is best to start by taking several models with you at once - it’s easier to notice the difference, to find the common.

Now about the wiring itself. All my practice (and not only mine) suggests that, in principle, in 99% of cases, two of the most common types of wiring are sufficient for successful fishing.

The first. Casting We drive a wobbler to the working depth. Further monotonous hard tviching to the boat itself. How do you feel that the wobbler is in a certain point (already under the boat itself), after which it must quickly go up, pause. A couple of seconds will be enough, I usually make a second pause somewhere. And if there was no bite, we are bravely exhausting. This is necessary in order to stir up the perch or perch, which pursued a lure, but did not dare to attack. On the one hand, the wiring is as simple as possible, but, you see, sometimes happiness is in simplicity ... Only with this wiring were not many competitions won in different parts of Russia.

Second. Sometimes, the perch is very much "pause" just to pauses. Then you need to give him what he wants ... Casting. We also drive a wobbler to the working depth and begin to drive it with the same hard monotonous twitching, only making second pauses after 4-5 jerks. If, with such a wiring, about half of the bites take place exactly on the pauses, we can safely say that these pauses are “vital” for the perch.

I can not argue when some wiring is better. Usually in a new pond or in a new place I try both. So here is a purely experimental way to identify the best.

Rod selection

Here I myself divide into two polarly opposed opinions. Twitch perch dipa two types of spinning. The first one is the classic “twitch tools”, the same as for the perch minus. My favorite of the Japanese are Daiko Featherweight 7 "0.8-7 g and 7'3" 1.5-10.5 g. Many people are envied (and jealous) of their lightness, slimness and "lickiness". If we talk about Koreans, the undisputed leader of this market is Black Hole Hi-Light 7 '3-12, widely known and beloved in Russia.

The second are those to which the term “Rockfish” is used in their description. A classic and beloved is not only me representative of this group - Major Craft AIRock 7’0 "0.5-5.

And actually, what thoughts are in my head regarding the “difference” of these groups. The first ones are classic proven variants, well suited for any methods of catching perch dipas. The second ones are spinning rods, much softer, delicate, seemingly completely unsuitable at first glance for hard aggressive twitching. But, possessing "medium-good" sensitivity in the hand when fishing for micro-jig, these rods demonstrate excellent sensitivity when fishing for wobblers. As so - I will not undertake to judge, but the fact is undeniable. Maybe, just because of their "sophistication" and lightness.

At first, I was just wildly trying to catch them with really hard twitching. The thought that the rod would simply fall apart during the next jerk did not go out of my head. But the authority known to Moscow spinningist Maxim Dydykin played a role. Maxim claimed that this is the best class of spinning for such a catch. So I started to catch (five years ago), and I still catch it.

During this time, the very concept of the main advantage of Rockfish rods has been developed when it comes to fishing with hard twitching. It is difficult to explain why, but I began to more clearly feel even a small blade of grass caught on the wobbler tee. At first, this conclusion seems a little absurd. What, it would seem, can be easier than to feel on lightly balanced gear, as the bait touched some, even a very insignificant obstacle. All so, only with uniform wiring. And with “super-intensive twitching” with more rigid spinning, all this is noticed to a much lesser extent.

Conclusion. If there are algae in the place of catching, and those who strive to “partially stay” on the tees, it is more convenient to catch Rockfish with the ringing. This nuance will allow you not to waste time on pre-“defective” wiring. In all other cases, I would choose the classic twitch spinning.

Perch fishing

The perch is not at all the predator that will cheerfully wag its tail while standing on a powerful jet. During the course, it usually hides behind various obstacles and objects, where the jet weakens, where it is comfortable and there is no need to spend a lot of energy on resisting the flow. And as in the coastal return, and when fishing conditionally speaking in the middle of the river, we can not do without perch dipov.

In the event that the fishing area is shallow, of course, it is much more efficient and more convenient to catch at minnow. But when the depth exceeds a meter, there is no way without dip. Like many other predators, during the perch will not be long or from afar to chase your bait. Spent under the nose, light acceleration, splayed fins, bright war paint the whale ..., and then "as the chip will fall," if from the first two times it does not hit the tee, it will sail away.

One of the most important in catching perch on the course (by the way, and in general in feeding the bait) is to get into the necessary horizon, and, therefore, “under the nose”. Therefore, for the flow is so important a diverse set of crankbaits with different depth. A change in the posting horizon of only 25-35 cm can drastically change the outcome of fishing.

In principle, in the course I catch with exactly the same tackle as in still water. It is still very important not to overdo it with the diameter of the braid (all for the same reasons). All the main differences are in the wiring.

Somehow it happened that in the course of completely different fish, including perch, I catch soft twitching. This wiring is difficult to describe with precision in words, it is better to watch a video, for example, on the Internet. But the general tendency is as follows: small wiggles, light jerks commensurate with low wiring speed, frequent stops. That is probably the main criteria. But, I repeat, it is better to see this wiring once.

Why is she ...? Reasonable question. I will answer shortly - the method of "statistical drop". At the moment, neither I nor other athletes could come up with anything more productive. Today - she is the best option.

There is one more thing to mention. Catching on the current often has a point character. Suppose we see the return under the opposite shore. We rise a little upstream and fish it with casts, starting from the bottom. As a rule, less perch can be frightened by dashing. The first few casts are more convenient to do with shallower models, for example, with a depth of half the depth in the return line. So at first it is more convenient to catch a perch, patrolling in some middle layers. Then put the model with great depth.

Approximately according to the same scheme, it is convenient to fish places in a current. Standing a little higher, we first try a crank with a depth a little less than the depth in this place seemed to us. Then more deep. So there is a chance to "neatly" catch an active predator that can fly out for your bait. After that, try to catch other possible ones for deeper models, “tightly” passing obstacles.

On the current, the perch loves those places where it weakens - behind tufts of grass, changes in relief. A great place - a kind of bump in the middle of a small river. Behind him will surely perch. As a mound, there can be anything, like a natural relief, or a KAMAZ tire. No matter how sad it sounds, both perch "like".

And in the end “a couple of words” about the best perch dipas. Each of them has earned, proved and continues to confirm at the competitions of various levels his title of “slaughter lure”.

Duel Hardcore SH-50SP

I specifically waited for a pause. A pause in length of five years ... Now many sportsmen actively catch this wobbler, and once it was “the strictest secret”. I think that Maxim Dydykin will not be offended at me ... After all, it was from this wobbler that everything began, victories began while catching dips. He is always in my box, I always treat him with respect, he is a real veteran. I have it serves as a kind of indicator of the presence of fish in the place of fishing. If the depth is about 2-2.5 m, and there are no bites on it, then there is no fish ... The working horizon is 2-2.2 m.

Megabass Live-X Smolt

The same respected veteran, like the previous one. And his "career stars" began at about the same time. In some cases, he fished the "first" ... Work horizon 1.3-1.6 m.

Pontoon21 Cheerful 40 F MR

He is no longer known only by the lazy. Just a couple of years ago, he just appeared, and gained popularity with lightning speed. And not only besides its excellent catchiness, but also the "inflexibility of the spirit." I am not afraid to say this: this kid is not able to "break" any current. One of the most (if not the most) stable crank deep in this size. I love them to catch on small rivers. The working horizon is 0.9-1.2 m.

ZipBaits Rigge Deep 56 F

The most famous wobbler from the most famous manufacturer in the version of the dip. And there is nothing to add. Great fighter. Work horizon 1.1-1.5 m.

Liberty Bite 50SP

He was caught by Russian spinningists not so long ago, but his popularity is actively “gaining momentum”. Very versatile wobbler. What kind of fish I didn’t catch on him, and perch, and pike, and chub ... Work horizon 1.7-2.1 m.

ZipBaits Rigge Deep 35 F

"35-ka" performed by minnow has long broken all popularity ratings among ultralight fans. But the deep version of the most popular wobbler tries to keep up with its more eminent fellow. The working horizon is 1-1.3 m.

Pontoon21 Crackjack 48SP-MR

Great lure. Good aerodynamics, good tvitsya, and most importantly - perfectly catches ... In addition to the “chic relationship with the perches”, it is also not indifferent to the chub. Chub I caught him really a lot, including per kilo weight. We are talking about the suburbs ... Work horizon 0.8-, 3 m.

ZipBaits Khamsin Jr.

Another excellent “dipchik” from the bison in the wobbler industry. In addition to fatty perches, a lot of pike are caught on it. The working horizon is 1.5-1.8 m.

Lucky Craft B’Freeze 48SP

A few seasons earlier it hurt me, I liked his ability, in addition to perches, to regularly “incline to attack” pikes. And now this wobbler occupies a worthy place in a combat box.

Pontoon21 Crackjack 38SP DR

Despite its very modest dimensions, it is very active and “dynamically” going to a predetermined depth. According to him, I still have little practice, but perch and trout, this crank catches for five plus. The working horizon is 1.2-1.5 m.

Liberty Pitty 65SP

Model wobbler from the famous Korean manufacturer, time-tested. If your task is to catch a fat perch, but if you can provoke a pike to attack, and the depth at the fishing spot is about 1.5 m, this wobbler will fit perfectly. In spurts, he turns around very actively, sometimes writing out very intricate pirouettes. Working horizon 1.3-1.6 m.

Pontoon21 Greedy Guts 55SP-MDR

Pontoon21 does not have unreasoned and unverified items. That once again confirmed this wobbler. Excellent flight characteristics combined with excellent catchability. What else is needed for successful fishing ...? While he managed to catch him perch and small pike. We will live and see, but I think it will be interesting for the chub. Working horizon 1.3-1.7 m.

Anglers Republic T.T.M-Shad 48SP

This time I cannot bypass this wobbler side ... Let me repeat a bit: “Another obvious representative of the class“ I will try to catch what I bite. ” And perch, and asp, and chub, and perch - all this is in the power of one wobbler. Stream holds well, goes into the depth quickly and rapidly. At the end of the blade is equipped with a metal ball. Many people think that it prevents the scapula from chipping off when fishing on a rocky bottom. Perhaps ... But that's not the point, the main thing is that he catches well. "

The fattest and deepest perch on his account. He will get "whales" from where others cannot reach. Working horizon 2.4-2.7 m.

OSP Dunk 48 SP

I said it many times and never stop repeating it - one of the few compact deep-seaters that catch well, including the perch. The working horizon is 2.2-2.6 m.